Wooyoungmi A/W 2016

Wooyoungmi Menswear Collection 2016 — (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Mood board: Co-creative director’s Madame Woo and daughter Katie Chung opened their show with a languid two button nudish pink suit in double stretch cotton, worn with an asymmetric collar shirt in apricot. Their proposition for next season drew inspiration from the harmony and shapes of nature, drawn mostly from the delicate flowers and rambling weeds they noticed growing together happily in their garden, which is just outside of Seoul. The curve of arum lilies was translated into long shirt cuffs and spliced trouser hems. Fabrics are nubby and natural; the painterly palette was drawn from artist David Hockney’s The Arrival of Spring prints.

Scene setting: The quixotic sound for the show, which was held at the Pavillon Cambon Capucines, was designed by Stu Sibley. Sibley played synthesizer and drum as a group of violinists performed an original score that was composed especially for the label by Jérémie Renoir.

Sound bite: The label showed womenswear for the first time. ‘The same elements are always there in the collections,’ joint creative director Katie Chung said. ‘The elevation of classic men’s tailoring in relaxed, luxury fabrics is what we do. For autumn/winter we wanted to push this masculinity further by embracing a more feminine mood.’

INFORMATION
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.