Berluti A/W 2016

Mood board: Since 2011, artistic director Alessandro Sartori has been focused on defining the silhouette of the Berluti man. The ultra-luxe clothes in lush, jewel tones he presented for A/W 2016 borrowed its palette from Marfa, Texas and its line from the geometry of artist Donald Judd.

Team work: In a more raffish direction, the New York-based tattoo artist Scott Campbell created five original designs that were stitched to the back of leather bomber jackets and shoe-uppers and etched onto leather. Fake tattoos of Campbell’s miniature geometric patterns were applied to most of the model’s necks and faces too. Amongst such storied elegance, the art of tattooing isn’t as improbable as you may think; tattoo artists at Berluti’s workshop in Ferrara, Italy have been etching personalised designs and monograms for its customers since 2001.

Best in show: Judd’s influence was there in a bold rectangular grid patchwork wool and leather topcoat and an array of graphic knitwear. Tailored jackets that looked like they were worn layered were also, in-fact part of the same garment.

INFORMATION

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.