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Mood board: A wave of change has swept over Gucci now that Frida Giannini has left the house of double G. Her former assistant Alessandro Michele surprised critics by delivering a strong collection and a convincing case for feminine men's dressing. Button back blouses and long, straight girl-hair on the boys, all added to a frisson of something new.
Best in show: The bow-front blouse became the staple of this show, constructed in countless iterations, from big floppy printed bows in printed silk to micro thin bows made from black leather strips. We also rated the soundtrack, which came from Tom Ford's film A Single Man.
Finishing touches: Michele's experience as an accessories designer shone through with fantastic footwear including fur-lined clogs and astrakhan-lined backless loafers that had most of the menswear editors in the audience panting for more. Other goodies included bronze metal rings, green berets and furry ski hats.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
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JJ Martin