A 360-degree tour of the shows, from the invitations to backstage reports, grooming trends and venue highlights
Menswear at Maison Martin Margiela has always carried quiet subversive elements, which upon first glance may go unnoticed - eschewing absurd fantasy for toned-down classics that fuse luxury and industry. The anonymous design team's latest outing pushed that pairing to new heights for Autumn, inspired by the isolated town of Pyramiden on the Norwegian archipelago, abandoned in the late 1990s after both Russian and Swedish ownership. The haunting remnants of the deserted mining town were transformed into nostalgic applications on archetypal garments, with connotations of extreme survival in a tarpaulin parka or the woolly blanket hood sliced into a camel trench. Elsewhere, the weather itself took charge with icy spray powdered across a coat and suit, or masses of white shearling like freshly fallen snow.
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