Dsquared2 A/W 2014

Without question, fashion has its fair share of insanity. But no one taps into the mad hatter tricks of the business quite like Dean and Dan Caten. Across the backdrop of a bleak three-floor psychiatric prison, the twin designers took a spin through the halls of a loony bin. Here, orange really is the new black and it's never looked better in slimly cut nylon quilted jackets and vests that were layered over and under strict black suiting. The Caten silhouette, first imprinted on their famous jeans, is unmistakable: it's a drop crotch carrot shaped pant, cropped well above the ankle. This season as they worked in more grown up materials, from stiffened flannels to super fine wools, that shape has never looked better. Set atop a sleek but chunk-a-fied hiking boot and paired with prison knit caps, neat ties, and thickly rimmed eyewear, the boys embodied slick refinement cut with an edge. Though these men were supposedly all certifiably bonkers, this happened to be one of the most sane, down to earth, delightful collections Dsquared2 has ever delivered. The music, meanwhile, was wonderfully batty: 'Insane in the Membrane' mixed with Billy Joel and, just as guests were leaving, a finale of Nurse Ratched's unmistakable voice screeching at her patients to 'Sit down!'