Editor’s picks from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2015: womenswear collections

Wall-mounted storage racks topped with ceramic vases
Tomorrow: The entryway to fashion showroom Tomorrow in Paris features ceramic vases by Tuscany-based, German-born designer Britta Herrmann for MANI
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Models wearing digitally fabricated dresses

Iris Van Herpen: This season Van Herpen continued her collaboration with Canadian architecture professor Philip Beesley on the creation of digitally fabricated dresses made from a 'black garden of fractal like geometries'. The world was the designer's focus for A/W, including its mineral geology and spectral hues. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Art exhibit at Paris' Musée des Arts

Fornasetti: Piero Fornasetti's 'The Practical Madness' exhibit opens at Paris' Musée des Arts Décoratifs

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Navy coats hanging on a rack next to pictures on a wall

Pallas: The French brand expanded its spring Le Smoking offering by adding navy to the colour palette and a whole host of beautiful coats, shimmering turtlenecks and shoes made by Massaro

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Installation of graphic patterns

Nicholas Kirkwood: Sixties futurism led the London-based designer to experiment with proportions, graphic pattern and sculptural forms for A/W with his two key stories titled Pollypetal and Carnaby

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Model posing with a matching jacket and handbag

Wunderkind: We were off and racing at the German brand that drew upon all things equestrian and plaid for winter. Photography: Jim Rosemberg

(Image credit: Jim Rosemberg)

Models wearing various patterns of clothing

Giambattista Valli: Nobody loves a dress more than Giambattista Valli, however this season he also worked a mean pair of pants into his collection, cutting a skin-tight, slightly flared shape that fell to the ground in sturdy jacquards and laces. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Handcrafted rosewood and leather bag

Prim by Michelle Elie: The brand's A/W collection took inspiration from Italian architect Carlo Scarpa, resulting in spectacular statement jewellery and beautifully handcrafted rosewood and leather bags

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Models wearing big ear and nose ring accessories

Givenchy: Riccardo Tisci served up a culture clash that juxtaposed buttoned-up Victorian propriety with the Chola girls of the rather more dangerous South American gang scene

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Two images showing models wearing a black coat

Zaid Affas: Offering clean, purity of design, Zaid Affas' A/W focus was form, shape and luxurious materials for his third season. Photography: Jiro Schneider

(Image credit: Jiro Schneider)

Models wearing sheer fabrics

Esteban Cortazar: Winter was a decidedly sexier season for the Paris-based designer, who explored sheer fabrics that seductively swirled down the catwalk

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Glitter heels on a white table

Maison Margiela: John Galliano's new toe and heel shape was lavished with plenty of sparkle

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Patterned leather boots

Tabitha Simmons: Introducing a round toe for A/W, Simmons showcased healed Chelsea boots in an array of patterns and leathers

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Various models wearing white and black clothing

Mugler: David Koma impressed with angular cuts that stuck within the house’s signature body-con silhouette for A/W. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Presentation of handbags and high heels

Roger Vivier: We were seeing stars for all the right reasons at Bruno Frisoni’s A/W presentation conceived by Simon Costin, as the designer presented a new collection dominated by flats that transcended from day to night

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Installation of heels and boots

Aquazzura: Inspired by his Instagram muses, Edgardo Osorio’s diverse A/W collection scaled block heeled platforms - a first for the brand - to fur-lined moon boats, offering a style to please his every woman

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Models walking on the runway in black clothing

Maison Margiela: John Galliano’s first ready-to-wear collection at the helm of Margiela fused the designer’s penchant for emotion and history with the brand’s conceptual legacy. Overall a far more crafted and tailored approach, in an unexpectedly commercial way. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

White and black boots

Pierre Hardy: A pleasing bootie juxtaposition in every which way: black vs white; chunky block heels vs a smooth finish

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Models wearing grey coats and patterned clothing

Julien David: Camouflage, masculinity, equestrian and military motifs were rendered in tape or print with the intent of being seen. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Models on the runway wearing silk shirt dresses

Maiyet: Kristy Caylor was inspired by Scottish architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh for A/W. With a Dries-ian elegance, Caylor employed delicate embroideries and unstructured floor length silk shirt dresses with subtlety and grace

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Navy patterned handbag and clutch

Delvaux: Celebrating the long-established history of collaborations between the Belgian brand and renowned architects, this winter Delvaux is going for graphic lines, clean cuts and unexpected contrasts. For a more casual look, the iconic ‘Le Givry’ and ‘Le Pin’ bags come in mini versions, too

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Models wearing colorful clothing and transparent lace

Balmain: Shocking colour combinations of green and gold, orange and fuchsia, mustard and cobalt from the late disco era had us sitting up straight as Olivier Rousteing sprinkled beaded fringe, ruffles, sunray pleating and transparent lace liberally. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Model wearing beige clothing, standing in front of a fire place

Y/Project: This label to watch draped a dream silhouette for A/W

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Blue handbag and a brown small trunk

Moynat: Trunk life... Moynat celebrates its 165 anniversary of superior craftsmanship this year

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Models wearing black clothing and zippered leather corset belt

Ann Demeulemeester: Zippered leather corset belts restrained Sébastien Meunier's voluminous, dark tailoring. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Wild, weeping florals and foliage

Vionnet: Wild, weeping florals and foliage fell from branches set above a cement-rendered runway at Vionnet. This season's concrete garden was once again planted by Villa Eugenie

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Models wearing black laser-cut leather and suede

Anthony Vaccarello: The Italian-Belgian designer studded his starry western story with grommets hammered into patchworked, laser-cut leather and suede. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Navy blue snakeskin handbag

Lancel: The accessory house's new lady is the vintage-inspired Bianca saddle bag, which comes in Seventies snakeskin or supple leather

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Blue and pink high heels

Hermès: Dancing on the ceiling at Pierre Hardy's A/W Hermès Paris shoe presentation

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Models wearing stealth sack dresses

Rochas: An austere 1930s elegance settled over Alessandro dell'Acqua's A/W Rochas show saw stealth sack dress cinched at the waist and Hitchcockian bird motifs - derived from founder Marcel Rochas' 1934 collection dedicated to the swallow - decorate evening looks. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Beighe handbag clutch with white and black stripes

Tomasini: The cult Parisian accessory label's Targa collection was inspired by the racing interior of the 1980s Porsche 911

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Soft silk skirting and raw-edged guipure lace

Vanessa Bruno: It was back to Bohemia for the French designer's autumn offering that revamped soft silk skirting, teaming it back with raw-edged Guipure lace and fringed bucket bags

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Fashion Features Editor

Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*. Having previously held roles at 10, 10 Men and AnOther magazines, he joined the team in 2022. His work has a particular focus on the moments where fashion and style intersect with other creative disciplines – among them art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and profiling the industry’s leading figures and brands.