Editor's picks from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2015: womenswear collections
Editor's picks from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2015: womenswear collections
Tomorrow: The entryway to fashion showroom Tomorrow in Paris features ceramic vases by Tuscany-based, German-born designer Britta Herrmann for MANI
Iris Van Herpen: This season Van Herpen continued her collaboration with Canadian architecture professor Philip Beesley on the creation of digitally fabricated dresses made from a 'black garden of fractal like geometries'. The world was the designer's focus for A/W, including its mineral geology and spectral hues. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Fornasetti: Piero Fornasetti's 'The Practical Madness' exhibit opens at Paris' Musée des Arts Décoratifs
Pallas: The French brand expanded its spring Le Smoking offering by adding navy to the colour palette and a whole host of beautiful coats, shimmering turtlenecks and shoes made by Massaro
Nicholas Kirkwood: Sixties futurism led the London-based designer to experiment with proportions, graphic pattern and sculptural forms for A/W with his two key stories titled Pollypetal and Carnaby
Wunderkind: We were off and racing at the German brand that drew upon all things equestrian and plaid for winter. Photography: Jim Rosemberg
Giambattista Valli: Nobody loves a dress more than Giambattista Valli, however this season he also worked a mean pair of pants into his collection, cutting a skin-tight, slightly flared shape that fell to the ground in sturdy jacquards and laces. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Prim by Michelle Elie: The brand's A/W collection took inspiration from Italian architect Carlo Scarpa, resulting in spectacular statement jewellery and beautifully handcrafted rosewood and leather bags
Givenchy: Riccardo Tisci served up a culture clash that juxtaposed buttoned-up Victorian propriety with the Chola girls of the rather more dangerous South American gang scene
Zaid Affas: Offering clean, purity of design, Zaid Affas' A/W focus was form, shape and luxurious materials for his third season. Photography: Jiro Schneider
Esteban Cortazar: Winter was a decidedly sexier season for the Paris-based designer, who explored sheer fabrics that seductively swirled down the catwalk
Maison Margiela: John Galliano's new toe and heel shape was lavished with plenty of sparkle
Tabitha Simmons: Introducing a round toe for A/W, Simmons showcased healed Chelsea boots in an array of patterns and leathers
Mugler: David Koma impressed with angular cuts that stuck within the house’s signature body-con silhouette for A/W. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Roger Vivier: We were seeing stars for all the right reasons at Bruno Frisoni’s A/W presentation conceived by Simon Costin, as the designer presented a new collection dominated by flats that transcended from day to night
Aquazzura: Inspired by his Instagram muses, Edgardo Osorio’s diverse A/W collection scaled block heeled platforms - a first for the brand - to fur-lined moon boats, offering a style to please his every woman
Maison Margiela: John Galliano’s first ready-to-wear collection at the helm of Margiela fused the designer’s penchant for emotion and history with the brand’s conceptual legacy. Overall a far more crafted and tailored approach, in an unexpectedly commercial way. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Pierre Hardy: A pleasing bootie juxtaposition in every which way: black vs white; chunky block heels vs a smooth finish
Julien David: Camouflage, masculinity, equestrian and military motifs were rendered in tape or print with the intent of being seen. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Maiyet: Kristy Caylor was inspired by Scottish architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh for A/W. With a Dries-ian elegance, Caylor employed delicate embroideries and unstructured floor length silk shirt dresses with subtlety and grace
Delvaux: Celebrating the long-established history of collaborations between the Belgian brand and renowned architects, this winter Delvaux is going for graphic lines, clean cuts and unexpected contrasts. For a more casual look, the iconic ‘Le Givry’ and ‘Le Pin’ bags come in mini versions, too
Balmain: Shocking colour combinations of green and gold, orange and fuchsia, mustard and cobalt from the late disco era had us sitting up straight as Olivier Rousteing sprinkled beaded fringe, ruffles, sunray pleating and transparent lace liberally. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Y/Project: This label to watch draped a dream silhouette for A/W
Moynat: Trunk life... Moynat celebrates its 165 anniversary of superior craftsmanship this year
Ann Demeulemeester: Zippered leather corset belts restrained Sébastien Meunier's voluminous, dark tailoring. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Vionnet: Wild, weeping florals and foliage fell from branches set above a cement-rendered runway at Vionnet. This season's concrete garden was once again planted by Villa Eugenie
Anthony Vaccarello: The Italian-Belgian designer studded his starry western story with grommets hammered into patchworked, laser-cut leather and suede. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Lancel: The accessory house's new lady is the vintage-inspired Bianca saddle bag, which comes in Seventies snakeskin or supple leather
Hermès: Dancing on the ceiling at Pierre Hardy's A/W Hermès Paris shoe presentation
Rochas: An austere 1930s elegance settled over Alessandro dell'Acqua's A/W Rochas show saw stealth sack dress cinched at the waist and Hitchcockian bird motifs - derived from founder Marcel Rochas' 1934 collection dedicated to the swallow - decorate evening looks. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Tomasini: The cult Parisian accessory label's Targa collection was inspired by the racing interior of the 1980s Porsche 911
Vanessa Bruno: It was back to Bohemia for the French designer's autumn offering that revamped soft silk skirting, teaming it back with raw-edged Guipure lace and fringed bucket bags
