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Editor’s picks from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2015: womenswear collections

Wall-mounted storage racks topped with ceramic vases

Tomorrow: The entryway to fashion showroom Tomorrow in Paris features ceramic vases by Tuscany-based, German-born designer Britta Herrmann for MANI

(Image credit: TBC)

By Jack Moss

last updated 20 July 2022

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Models wearing digitally fabricated dresses — **Iris Van Herpen:** This season Van Herpen continued her collaboration with Canadian architecture professor Philip Beesley on the creation of digitally fabricated dresses made from a 'black garden of fractal like geometries'. The world was the designer's focus for A/W, including its mineral geology and spectral hues. *Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans*

Art exhibit at Paris' Musée des Arts — **Fornasetti:** Piero Fornasetti's 'The Practical Madness' exhibit opens at Paris' Musée des Arts Décoratifs

Navy coats hanging on a rack next to pictures on a wall — **Pallas:** The French brand expanded its spring *Le Smoking* offering by adding navy to the colour palette and a whole host of beautiful coats, shimmering turtlenecks and shoes made by Massaro

Installation of graphic patterns — **Nicholas Kirkwood:** Sixties futurism led the London-based designer to experiment with proportions, graphic pattern and sculptural forms for A/W with his two key stories titled Pollypetal and Carnaby

Model posing with a matching jacket and handbag — **Wunderkind:** We were off and racing at the German brand that drew upon all things equestrian and plaid for winter. *Photography: Jim Rosemberg*

Models wearing various patterns of clothing — **Giambattista Valli:** Nobody loves a dress more than Giambattista Valli, however this season he also worked a mean pair of pants into his collection, cutting a skin-tight, slightly flared shape that fell to the ground in sturdy jacquards and laces. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Handcrafted rosewood and leather bag — **Prim by Michelle Elie:** The brand's A/W collection took inspiration from Italian architect Carlo Scarpa, resulting in spectacular statement jewellery and beautifully handcrafted rosewood and leather bags

Models wearing big ear and nose ring accessories — **Givenchy:** Riccardo Tisci served up a culture clash that juxtaposed buttoned-up Victorian propriety with the Chola girls of the rather more dangerous South American gang scene

Two images showing models wearing a black coat — **Zaid Affas:** Offering clean, purity of design, Zaid Affas' A/W focus was form, shape and luxurious materials for his third season. *Photography: Jiro Schneider*

Models wearing sheer fabrics — **Esteban Cortazar:** Winter was a decidedly sexier season for the Paris-based designer, who explored sheer fabrics that seductively swirled down the catwalk

Glitter heels on a white table — **Maison Margiela:** John Galliano's new toe and heel shape was lavished with plenty of sparkle

Patterned leather boots — **Tabitha Simmons:** Introducing a round toe for A/W, Simmons showcased healed Chelsea boots in an array of patterns and leathers

Various models wearing white and black clothing — **Mugler:** David Koma impressed with angular cuts that stuck within the house’s signature body-con silhouette for A/W. *Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans*

Presentation of handbags and high heels — **Roger Vivier:** We were seeing stars for all the right reasons at Bruno Frisoni’s A/W presentation conceived by Simon Costin, as the designer presented a new collection dominated by flats that transcended from day to night

Installation of heels and boots — **Aquazzura:** Inspired by his Instagram muses, Edgardo Osorio’s diverse A/W collection scaled block heeled platforms - a first for the brand - to fur-lined moon boats, offering a style to please his every woman

Models walking on the runway in black clothing — **Maison Margiela:** John Galliano’s first ready-to-wear collection at the helm of Margiela fused the designer’s penchant for emotion and history with the brand’s conceptual legacy. Overall a far more crafted and tailored approach, in an unexpectedly commercial way. *Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans*

White and black boots — **Pierre Hardy:** A pleasing bootie juxtaposition in every which way: black vs white; chunky block heels vs a smooth finish

Models wearing grey coats and patterned clothing — **Julien David:** Camouflage, masculinity, equestrian and military motifs were rendered in tape or print with the intent of being seen. *Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans*

Models on the runway wearing silk shirt dresses — **Maiyet:** Kristy Caylor was inspired by Scottish architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh for A/W. With a Dries-ian elegance, Caylor employed delicate embroideries and unstructured floor length silk shirt dresses with subtlety and grace

Navy patterned handbag and clutch — **Delvaux:** Celebrating the long-established history of collaborations between the Belgian brand and renowned architects, this winter Delvaux is going for graphic lines, clean cuts and unexpected contrasts. For a more casual look, the iconic ‘Le Givry’ and ‘Le Pin’ bags come in mini versions, too

Models wearing colorful clothing and transparent lace — **Balmain:** Shocking colour combinations of green and gold, orange and fuchsia, mustard and cobalt from the late disco era had us sitting up straight as Olivier Rousteing sprinkled beaded fringe, ruffles, sunray pleating and transparent lace liberally. *Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans*

Model wearing beige clothing, standing in front of a fire place — **Y/Project:** This label to watch draped a dream silhouette for A/W

Blue handbag and a brown small trunk — **Moynat:** Trunk life... Moynat celebrates its 165 anniversary of superior craftsmanship this year

Models wearing black clothing and zippered leather corset belt — **Ann Demeulemeester:** Zippered leather corset belts restrained Sébastien Meunier's voluminous, dark tailoring. *Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans*

**Vionnet:** Wild, weeping florals and foliage fell from branches set above a cement-rendered runway at Vionnet. This season's concrete garden was once again planted by Villa Eugenie

Models wearing black laser-cut leather and suede — **Anthony Vaccarello:** The Italian-Belgian designer studded his starry western story with grommets hammered into patchworked, laser-cut leather and suede. *Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans*

Navy blue snakeskin handbag — **Lancel:** The accessory house's new lady is the vintage-inspired Bianca saddle bag, which comes in Seventies snakeskin or supple leather

Blue and pink high heels — **Hermès:** Dancing on the ceiling at Pierre Hardy's A/W Hermès Paris shoe presentation

Models wearing stealth sack dresses — **Rochas:** An austere 1930s elegance settled over Alessandro dell'Acqua's A/W Rochas show saw stealth sack dress cinched at the waist and Hitchcockian bird motifs - derived from founder Marcel Rochas' 1934 collection dedicated to the swallow - decorate evening looks. *Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans*

Beighe handbag clutch with white and black stripes — **Tomasini:** The cult Parisian accessory label's Targa collection was inspired by the racing interior of the 1980s Porsche 911

Soft silk skirting and raw-edged guipure lace — **Vanessa Bruno:** It was back to Bohemia for the French designer's autumn offering that revamped soft silk skirting, teaming it back with raw-edged Guipure lace and fringed bucket bags

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Jack Moss

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Fashion Features Editor

Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*. Having previously held roles at 10, 10 Men and AnOther magazines, he joined the team in 2022. His work has a particular focus on the moments where fashion and style intersect with other creative disciplines – among them art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and profiling the industry’s leading figures and brands.

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