Editor’s picks from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2015: womenswear collections

Giambattista Valli: Nobody loves a dress more than Giambattista Valli, however this season he also worked a mean pair of pants into his collection, cutting a skin-tight, slightly flared shape that fell to the ground in sturdy jacquards and laces. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Prim by Michelle Elie: The brand's A/W collection took inspiration from Italian architect Carlo Scarpa, resulting in spectacular statement jewellery and beautifully handcrafted rosewood and leather bags

Givenchy: Riccardo Tisci served up a culture clash that juxtaposed buttoned-up Victorian propriety with the Chola girls of the rather more dangerous South American gang scene

Zaid Affas: Offering clean, purity of design, Zaid Affas' A/W focus was form, shape and luxurious materials for his third season. Photography: Jiro Schneider

Esteban Cortazar: Winter was a decidedly sexier season for the Paris-based designer, who explored sheer fabrics that seductively swirled down the catwalk

Maison Margiela: John Galliano's new toe and heel shape was lavished with plenty of sparkle

Tabitha Simmons: Introducing a round toe for A/W, Simmons showcased healed Chelsea boots in an array of patterns and leathers

Mugler: David Koma impressed with angular cuts that stuck within the house’s signature body-con silhouette for A/W. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Roger Vivier: We were seeing stars for all the right reasons at Bruno Frisoni’s A/W presentation conceived by Simon Costin, as the designer presented a new collection dominated by flats that transcended from day to night

Aquazzura: Inspired by his Instagram muses, Edgardo Osorio’s diverse A/W collection scaled block heeled platforms - a first for the brand - to fur-lined moon boats, offering a style to please his every woman

Maison Margiela: John Galliano’s first ready-to-wear collection at the helm of Margiela fused the designer’s penchant for emotion and history with the brand’s conceptual legacy. Overall a far more crafted and tailored approach, in an unexpectedly commercial way. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Pierre Hardy: A pleasing bootie juxtaposition in every which way: black vs white; chunky block heels vs a smooth finish

Julien David: Camouflage, masculinity, equestrian and military motifs were rendered in tape or print with the intent of being seen. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Maiyet: Kristy Caylor was inspired by Scottish architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh for A/W. With a Dries-ian elegance, Caylor employed delicate embroideries and unstructured floor length silk shirt dresses with subtlety and grace

Delvaux: Celebrating the long-established history of collaborations between the Belgian brand and renowned architects, this winter Delvaux is going for graphic lines, clean cuts and unexpected contrasts. For a more casual look, the iconic ‘Le Givry’ and ‘Le Pin’ bags come in mini versions, too

Balmain: Shocking colour combinations of green and gold, orange and fuchsia, mustard and cobalt from the late disco era had us sitting up straight as Olivier Rousteing sprinkled beaded fringe, ruffles, sunray pleating and transparent lace liberally. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Y/Project: This label to watch draped a dream silhouette for A/W
 

Moynat: Trunk life... Moynat celebrates its 165 anniversary of superior craftsmanship this year

Ann Demeulemeester: Zippered leather corset belts restrained Sébastien Meunier's voluminous, dark tailoring. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Vionnet: Wild, weeping florals and foliage fell from branches set above a cement-rendered runway at Vionnet. This season's concrete garden was once again planted by Villa Eugenie

Anthony Vaccarello: The Italian-Belgian designer studded his starry western story with grommets hammered into patchworked, laser-cut leather and suede. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Lancel: The accessory house's new lady is the vintage-inspired Bianca saddle bag, which comes in Seventies snakeskin or supple leather

Hermès: Dancing on the ceiling at Pierre Hardy's A/W Hermès Paris shoe presentation

Rochas: An austere 1930s elegance settled over Alessandro dell'Acqua's A/W Rochas show saw stealth sack dress cinched at the waist and Hitchcockian bird motifs - derived from founder Marcel Rochas' 1934 collection dedicated to the swallow - decorate evening looks. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Tomasini: The cult Parisian accessory label's Targa collection was inspired by the racing interior of the 1980s Porsche 911

Vanessa Bruno: It was back to Bohemia for the French designer's autumn offering that revamped soft silk skirting, teaming it back with raw-edged Guipure lace and fringed bucket bags