Left, coat, €1,365, by Dirk Bikkembergs. Jumper, £350; trousers, £295, both by Coach. Shoes, £2,092, by Raf Simons. Socks (worn throughout), £15, by Falke. Right, jacket, £760; roll-neck, £135, both by Paul Smith. Trousers, £295, by Coach. Belt, £230, by Marni. Shoes, £710, by Prada. Photography: Liam Warwick. Fashion: Jason Hughes. As originally featured in the September 2017 issue of Wallpaper* (W*222)
Tunnel vision: decked out in clashing checks and plaid, we’re dancing to a different beat
At just 23, Anders Hayward has already fit three careers under his beautifully buckled belt. Among his many talents, the dancer, model and experimental choreographer has the rare ability to turn a hectic fashion shoot into a carefully orchestrated waltz.
For our September 2017 Style Special, we tapped Hayward to direct the movement for a menswear fashion shoot photographed by Liam Warwick, in which we celebrate clashing checks and plucky plaids. Creating a sense of movement beneath all these juxtaposing Prada, Calvin Klein and Salvatore Ferragamo patterns was essential. ‘During the styling process, I chose thematic movements that I felt would suit the clothes,’ Hayward explains, ‘I’m interested in designers that create clothes for characters – I enjoy creating fashion narratives.’
Game to become the leading men were our models, Georges Labbat and Baptiste Faure – despite their differing levels of dance experience. Labbat was the perfect match for Hayward, having trained in Belgium under intensely musical choreographer Anne Teresa de Keersmaeker. But Anders enjoys the surprise and (sometimes inelegant) quirks that come from working with models with minimal formal dance training, like Faure. ‘It’s great to see a model who has never really been choreographed before come out with some really interesting, organic movement. On the other side I love pushing more experienced dancers, like Labbat, to move in ways that they’re not necessarily familiar with.’
Hayward also grappled with a sculptural set and an eclectic mix of refined furniture – including pieces from Aram, B&B Italia and Rodolfo Dordoni. ‘I had sketches and blueprints of what the space was going to look like before, so I had a few ideas in mind – especially for the image with the two boys in the circle,’ says Hayward. ‘We found that it worked best if they were constantly moving. When the two were in constant flow, I could just tweak a hand movement, a shoe placement, or the flourish of a lapel.’
Though we’re only treated to the static, freeze-framed result, the arching backs, awkward necks and stretching fingers of each model capture Hayward’s momentum-filled choreography – while proving one can do impressive backbends in a tailored Fendi suit.
Left, coat, £1,560; top, £780; trousers, £620, all by Calvin Klein 205W39NCY. Right, coat, £1,825; trousers (part of suit), price on request, both by Salvatore Ferragamo. Roll-neck, £155, by John Smedley. Belt, £310; shoes, £710, both by Prada. ‘Pollock’ armchair, £1,755, by Charles Pollock, for Knoll, from The Conran Shop. ‘Cesar’ side table, £808, by Rodolfo Dordoni, for Minotti
Jacket, £1,750; jumper, £425; trousers, £525, all by Valentino. Shoes, £710, by Prada. ‘Diamond’ upholstered chair, £1,834, by Harry Bertoia, for Knoll, from Aram
Jacket, £1,270; jacket (worn underneath), £540; collar, £130; trousers, £520, all by Marni. ‘Alanda’ vintage coffee table, £750, by Paolo Piva, for B&B Italia, from 79 Shacklewell
Jacket, €930, by Dondup. Roll-neck £155, by John Smedley. Trousers £210, by Cerruti 1881. Belt, £310; shoes, £710, both by Prada
Left, coat, £3,650; roll-neck, £600; trousers, £460, all by Hermès. Shoes, £710, by Prada. ‘194 9’ side table, £1,068; coffee table, £1,548, both by Piero Lissoni, for Cassina, from Aram. Right, Jacket, £1,030; shirt, £385, both by Kenzo
Jacket, £1,675; shirt, £815; trousers, £475; shoes, £710, all by Prada. ‘Pumpkin’ armchair, £1,514, by Pierre Paulin, for Ligne Roset
Jacket, £2,030; polo shirt, £405, both by Gucci
Left, jacket, £1,060; trousers, £450, both by Fendi. Roll-neck, £155, by John Smedley. Shoes, £2,092, by Raf Simons. ‘Diamond’ chair, £704, by Harry Bertoia, for Knoll. Right, jacket, €840 jacket (worn underneath), €270, both by MSGM