When Eva Karayiannis founded her childrenswear label Caramel at home in London in 1999, there was no grand plan – simply a desire to experiment and fill what she saw was a gap in the market. The designer describes herself as ‘spontaneous and instinctive’, and by organically honing her unique aesthetic, Caramel has become something of a cult label, beloved for its offering of high-quality pieces that satisfy style-conscious parents and active children alike. Founding Caramel set Karayiannis – whose background was in law and history of art – on the creative path she had been seeking, and over the years, the brand has opened stores in London, Paris and Tokyo. Just as organically as the label has grown, the opportunity to work with Zara came about in an authentic way: Marta Ortega Pérez – the non-executive chair of Inditex, Zara’s parent company – is an admirer and customer of Caramel. Now, the first of four collaborative collections launches this week.
Caramel London for Zara is this summer’s chicest kidswear
All pieces available at zara.com
‘I started to dream about the idea of reaching a broader audience, which was very exciting but obviously daunting at the same time,’ Karayiannis says of bringing these two worlds together. ‘It was a fun challenge to have, really, and it gave me the flexibility to do what I couldn’t do in my own business.’
The first collection is a succinct encapsulation of Caramel’s recognisable aesthetic across childrenswear and womenswear: timeless silhouettes, like car coats, bloomers and shirts, in subtly summery hues, punctuated with delicate florals, gingham and stripes. Karayiannis describes it as ‘an adaptation of Caramel within the Zara universe’, with references to over 25 years’ worth of archive collections and prints. ‘It's a small collection, and everything was very thought-through,’ she says. ‘Some of the pieces were ones that my children cherished – there’s a tunic shirt which is something that my son used to wear.’
The accompanying campaign is a sun-drenched beach adventure, and it was important for Karayiannis that it captured the spirit of nonconformity that is central to Caramel. ‘I always had a child in mind when I was designing, in my little fantasy world,’ she says. ‘I know there’s so much pressure on children now, so I was thinking I wanted these children to be rebellious. I want them to do whatever they want, be free-spirited. So when we went to the seaside, rather than putting a girl in a swimsuit, she’s wearing bloomers and a coat – as if she’s put it together herself, and expressing herself without the clothes being overpowering.’
The womenswear echoes this, with adaptable and elegant Caramel staples that can be worn anywhere and by anyone. ‘I imagine my adult daughters wearing the clothes,’ says Karayiannis. ‘They have completely different personalities – one will wear a dress with heels, the other one with trainers. That's what I want to achieve – that it's not the clothes wearing you.’
Having access to the resources of a much bigger brand allowed Karayiannis to realise things that had long been ideas on moodboards – like casting a model in the campaign whom she’d first come across years ago in a Venetia Scott photograph and had wanted to work with since. Ultimately, the similarities between an independent label like Caramel and a global brand like Zara surprised her in a positive way. ‘Despite the size and enormity of it, behind it all, there are people who share values, are passionate and share ideas. I really got on well with them.’
With three more collections to look forward to, Karayiannis notes a genuine affinity between the two brands that goes beyond a brief collaboration or marketing exercise. ‘I'm always wondering if smaller businesses have relevance in the world,’ she says, ‘so it's a beautiful thing that Zara is embracing brands like mine.’
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