As usual, our biannual Wallpaper* Style Issue reflects the changing fashion seasons. Rather less usually, this March 2025 edition arrives at a moment of relative upheaval within the industry, with close to a dozen creative directors on manoeuvres. Given that this list includes the likes of Sarah Burton, Matthieu Blazy and Haider Ackermann, it’s fair to say that something more involving than the industry-standard ‘musical chairs’ is underway.
Meanwhile, something akin to fashion’s tectonic plates is in motion, ushering in a more liberated, less prescriptive view of what a collection can be. Fashion features editor Jack Moss first identified the shift at Prada, where, he writes, co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons chose to operate ‘more like an open-ended invitation: who do you want to be today? “Infinite options proffer infinite opportunities,” said the house. These options comprised 49 entirely different looks to choose from; a collage of elements with barely a garment or idea repeated.’
Vests, both price on request, by Dior, enquire at dior.com. Mask, by Undercover, undercoverism.com
This disavowal of the traditional ‘convening power’ of a collection, unless defined by its very disparity, inspired Jack and fashion & creative director Jason Hughes to explore further examples of this new, more eclectic mood. They found it in the work of Satoshi Kondo at Issey Miyake, Francesco Risso at Marni – whose S/S 2025 collection once again celebrated the house’s individuality – and Rei Kawakubo’s characteristic perfume provocations at Comme des Garçons.
Coat, £1,390, by Victoria Beckham, enquire at victoriabeckham.com. Shoes, price on request, by Hodakova, enquire at hodakova.com
Elsewhere, we conjure with the spirit of self-expression that resides in the work of fashion designer-turned-jeweller Gabrielle Greiss; Eva Gödel, whose model agency Tomorrow Is Another Day is changing the mores of the runway; and the founders of Furu, the project management agency that is turning to architecture in the stark surroundings of the Swedish island of Gotland. Going your own way never felt less fanciful, more freeing, so now.
Bill Prince
Editor-in-Chief
The March 2025 issue of Wallpaper* is available in print on newsstands from 6 February 2025, on the Wallpaper* app on Apple iOS, and to subscribers of Apple News +. Subscribe to Wallpaper* today
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Alexander Wessely turns the Nobel Prize ceremony into a live artworkFor the first time, the Nobel Prize banquet has been reimagined as a live artwork. Swedish-Greek artist and scenographer Alexander Wessely speaks to Wallpaper* about creating a three-act meditation on light inside Stockholm City Hall
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At $31.4 million, this Lalanne hippo just smashed another world auction record at Sotheby’sThe jaw-dropping price marked the highest-ever for a work by François-Xavier Lalanne – and for a work of design generally
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NYC’s first alcohol-free members’ club is full of spiritThe Maze NYC is a design-led social hub in Flatiron, redefining how the city gathers with an alcohol-free, community-driven ethos
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At its academy, Prada sets an agenda for the future: ‘Technology cannot replace the ability to work with your hands’Wallpaper* takes a trip to the Prada Group Academy in Scandicci, Tuscany, where Prada CEO Andrea Guerra and CMO Lorenzo Bertelli outline the future of Italian craft on the institution’s 25th anniversary
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Issey Miyake’s HaaT flagship in Kyoto transforms a former sugar store into a pink-hued havenRenovating a traditional timber building dating back over a century, the Issey Miyake offshoot’s new Kyoto store is a conversation between past and present
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Zooming in on Jonathan Anderson’s first accessories collection for DiorWallpaper* takes a closer look at the accessories which appeared as part of the Northern Irish designer’s first womenswear collection for the house, which debuted in Paris in October
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Introducing the iPhone Pocket, a joyful new accessory from Apple and Issey MiyakeCarrying your device just got a colourful new twist thanks to the iPhone Pocket, a celebration of the two companies’ shared design DNA
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Ten pyjama shirts good enough to wear out of the bedroom and onto the streetFrom Prada to Dolce & Gabbana, designers have embraced the louche elegance of the pyjama shirt this season. Here, the Wallpaper* style team select ten of the best
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Faux fur and shearling dominated the A/W 2025 runways – these ten pieces capture the material’s ‘raw glamour’Embrace the season’s twisted glamour with these arresting pieces in imitation fur and shearling, from Simone Rocha’s faux fur-covered Mary Janes to colourful-hued shearlings from Gucci, Alaïa and Jacquemus
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Issey Miyake’s shape-shifting A/W 2025 collection transforms the paper bag into something you can wear‘Can anything be considered a garment, as long as it’s on the body?’ says creative director Satoshi Kondo of the art-infused collection, which sees the everyday reimagined
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Elmgreen & Dragset on creating a surreal cinema for Prada Mode in London: ‘You are never alone’Populated with a series of hyper-realistic figures, ‘The Audience’ is an immersive new work by the Scandinavian duo, providing the centrepiece of Prada Mode, the house’s roving private members’ club
