Valextra’s ‘collectible handbags’ see artisans from around the world put their stamp on design classics

A veneration of craft has been at the heart of the Valextra project since Giovanni Fontana, a former engineer, founded the Milanese leather goods brand in 1937. Defined by a precise, architectural sensibility, it was the first accessories brand to win the Compasso d'Oro in 1954 for its ‘24 hour’ bag – a classic of mid-century design made to hold the necessities of an overnight business trip in its clean-lined leather shell.

And, while Valextra remains known for this cooly minimalist approach – one reflected in the brand’s monumental, gallery-like Milan flagship, designed by John Pawson – a new project celebrates more expressive, personal acts of craft. Titled ‘The Journey of Craftsmanship’, Valextra has drafted eight artisans from around the world to reinterpret a series of its classic handbags – most notably, the Iside, which riffs on ladylike top-handle styles in clean, modernist style (it was added to the Valextra pantheon in 2011, and has been reimagined in various iterations in the years since).

Valextra: ‘The Journey of Craftsmanship’

‘[This project] allows us to enter into meaningful dialogue with exceptional artisans and their unique cultures around the world,’ says Xavier Rougeaux, who was appointed CEO in 2021 after stints at Smythson, Loro Piana and Sergio Rossi. ‘In evolving and transforming our icons, the collection captures [our] core principles – namely, the constant preservation and evolution of materiality in design, the uncompromising artisanal excellence at all times, and our commitment to inspiring our customers.’

As such, the various artisans work across mediums: Japanese artist Riku Matsuzaki conjures a unique polka-dot pattern through traditional indigo dyeing, China’s Qian Lihuai evokes historic bamboo weaving techniques, while India’s Chanakaya atelier utilises the embroidery for which it is internationally known to create a mosaic of mirrored sequins (each bag takes seven days to complete, and features 715 sequins which are each individually hand-stitched). Other techniques include traditional textile production (including Pizzo di Cantù) and porcelain, the latter by Japanese producer Riso Porcelain.

Transforming the Iside, Sportami Via and Milano handbags, the collection is defined by eclectic expressions of tactility and colour – ‘juxtaposing materialities and their makers,’ as Valextra describes. As such, they make for collector’s items – a riposte to the mass-produced and a testament to the perennial desirability of objects made by hand.

For further information, enquire at Valextra’s website or in store.

valextra.com