Richard Kilroy draws together fashion illustrators for a new book and London exhibition
Judging from the turnout at the launch of Richard Kilroy’s Menswear Illustration book, published by Thames & Hudson, it’s safe to say that illustrated renderings of menswear are a much-loved approach to interpreting fashion.
‘Photography has a few levels of group effort, in fashion particularly,’ Kilroy explains. ‘But illustration has come from one person and is a singular vision. Drawing itself, and its context of artistry give it a unique position for imagery and possibilities.’
The works on display in the Paul Smith store on Albemarle Street provide a glimpse into the wide variety of styles featured in the book. From Julie Verhoeven’s energetic drawings to the more conventionally elegant silhouettes of Clym Evernden, the scope of styles is as great as there are illustrators.
Kilroy’s illustrations combine classic portraiture and fragmented composition, which is as much about its subject as it is about the negative spaces enveloping his figures. This imperfect quality, he says, ‘came from going too far with realism at one point in my drawing. I felt like a human photocopier and I much prefer the ability to incorporate suggestive line and play about with things. It kind of divides the audience. I enjoy the fragmentation element but sometimes people ask: is it finished?’
The blank spaces and fine pencil strokes add a flux to his images, which he bases mostly on his own photographs. ‘I hate using secondhand photographs,' he explains. 'It's not my own vision and it's plagiarism of theirs, and also I need my models to be lit in a certain way to get the drawing how I want it.'
Kilroy veers toward ‘certain types of faces and looks of male models, I like to draw emphasis on their cheekbones, Adam’s apples and hands. I was always fascinated by detailed baroque sculptures of men fighting or wrestling, all those veins and their muscle tensions.’
When it comes to the menswear itself, Kilroy enjoys ‘suggesting elements and being very sparing. It's always a balancing act between the elements of realism and looseness.’
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
-
Technogym Home Bench 40 ways: designers interpret the home exercise classic
Technogym marks its 40 anniversary with 40 special editions of its Home Bench created in collaboration with international creatives
By Rosa Bertoli Published
-
AHEC presents new works in American maple as part of the Wallpaper* Class of ’24
The American Hardwood Export Council takes part in the Wallpaper* Class of ’24 exhibition at Triennale Milano during Salone del Mobile (16-21 April 2024), presenting new pieces by Parti and Giles Tettey Nartey in American hard maple
By Rosa Bertoli Published
-
Paris’s Musée des Arts Décoratifs celebrates avant-garde jewellery design
'Fashion, Design, Jewellery Exhibit' is the new transdisciplinary exhibition at Paris’s Musée des Arts Décoratifs
By Minako Norimatsu Published
-
‘Package Holiday 1968-1985’: a very British love affair in pictures
‘Package Holiday’ recalls tans, table tennis and Technicolor in Trevor Clark’s wistful snaps of sun-seeking Brits
By Caragh McKay Published
-
‘Art Exposed’: Julian Spalding on everything that’s wrong with the art world
In ‘Art Exposed’, Julian Spalding draws on his 40 years in the art world – as a museum director, curator, and critic – for his series of essays
By Alfred Tong Published
-
Marisol Mendez's ‘Madre’ unpicks the woven threads of Bolivian womanhood
From ancestry to protest, how Marisol Mendez’s 'Madre' is rewriting the narrative of Bolivian womanhood
By Sofia de la Cruz Published
-
Photo book explores the messy, magical mundanity of new motherhood
‘Sorry I Gave Birth I Disappeared But Now I’m Back’ by photographer Andi Galdi Vinko explores new motherhood in all its messy, beautiful reality
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Best contemporary art books: a guide for 2023
From maverick memoirs to topical tomes, turn over a new leaf with the Wallpaper* arts desk’s pick of new releases and all-time favourite art books
By Harriet Lloyd-Smith Published
-
The best photography books for your coffee table
Flick through, mull over and deep-dive into the best photography books on the market, from our shelves to you
By Sophie Gladstone Published
-
Photographer Alessandro Furchino Capria on cats, consumerism and digital deserts
We explore the vision of Italian photographer Alessandro Furchino Capria in this month’s ‘Through the lens’ feature, where we spotlight photographers who are Wallpaper* contributors
By Sophie Gladstone Published
-
10 Wallpaper* photography moments of 2022, from piña coladas to Pipilotti Rist
The most memorable Wallpaper* photography moments of 2022, courtesy of our esteemed photo desk
By Holly Hay Published