Richard Kilroy draws together fashion illustrators for a new book and London exhibition

Paintings and portrait art work in London

An exhibition of artwork from Richard Kilroy's new book, Menswear Illustration, is currently on display at Paul Smith's store in London

(Image credit: Richard Kilroy)

By Siska Lyssens

last updated 19 October 2022

in News

Judging from the turnout at the launch of Richard Kilroy’s Menswear Illustration book, published by Thames & Hudson, it’s safe to say that illustrated renderings of menswear are a much-loved approach to interpreting fashion.

‘Photography has a few levels of group effort, in fashion particularly,’ Kilroy explains. ‘But illustration has come from one person and is a singular vision. Drawing itself, and its context of artistry give it a unique position for imagery and possibilities.’

The works on display in the Paul Smith store on Albemarle Street provide a glimpse into the wide variety of styles featured in the book. From Julie Verhoeven’s energetic drawings to the more conventionally elegant silhouettes of Clym Evernden, the scope of styles is as great as there are illustrators.

Kilroy’s illustrations combine classic portraiture and fragmented composition, which is as much about its subject as it is about the negative spaces enveloping his figures. This imperfect quality, he says, ‘came from going too far with realism at one point in my drawing. I felt like a human photocopier and I much prefer the ability to incorporate suggestive line and play about with things. It kind of divides the audience. I enjoy the fragmentation element but sometimes people ask: is it finished?’

The blank spaces and fine pencil strokes add a flux to his images, which he bases mostly on his own photographs. ‘I hate using secondhand photographs,' he explains. 'It's not my own vision and it's plagiarism of theirs, and also I need my models to be lit in a certain way to get the drawing how I want it.'

Kilroy veers toward ‘certain types of faces and looks of male models, I like to draw emphasis on their cheekbones, Adam’s apples and hands. I was always fascinated by detailed baroque sculptures of men fighting or wrestling, all those veins and their muscle tensions.’

When it comes to the menswear itself, Kilroy enjoys ‘suggesting elements and being very sparing. It's always a balancing act between the elements of realism and looseness.’

The tome charts the work of a raft of artists — Published by Thames & Hudson, the tome charts the work of a raft of artists, including Jean-Philippe Delhomme, Julie Verhoeven, Richard Gray and Kilroy himself

Display of Richard Kilroy paintings — A series of colourful illustrations by Delhomme whose witty blog, The Unknown Hipster, enjoys a cult following for its satirical sketches of the fashionable and famous

Richard Gray presented in an intricately drawn portrait with a moody silhouette; the same model features in another watercolour, adorned in chunky jewellery and layers of monochrome shredded material

A straightforward side profile sketch letting the clothes do the talking

A straightforward side profile sketch by Richard Haines that lets the clothes do the talking

(Image credit: Richard Haines)

A potrait of a man — Richard Kilroy's illustrations are a combination of classic portraiture and fragmented composition, which is as much about its subject as it is about the negative spaces enveloping his figures

Signature style potrait — Kilroy explains that his signature style comes from going too far with realism at one stage of his drawing career. 'I felt like a human photocopier and I much prefer the ability to incorporate suggestive line and play about with things. I enjoy the fragmentation element but sometimes people ask: 'is it finished?'

A pencil potrait of a man — The blank spaces and fine pencil strokes the illustrator uses, like in this illustration, add a sense of flux to his images, which he bases mostly on his own photographs

Kilroy made sure to feature a great scope of styles in his book including the more conventionally elegant silhouettes of Clym Evernden

Energetic drawings of Julie Verhoeven — ...as well as the energetic drawings of contemporary British designer Julie Verhoeven

A classical portrait of Ricardo Fumanal — A classical portrait with a blink-and-you'll-miss-it hidden illustration makes for a unique offering by Ricardo Fumanal

drawing mimicking the contemporary man taking a 'selfie' — Richard Haines adds a splash of paint to his rough and ready sketches, all the while his ever relevant second outline drawing mimicks the contemporary man taking a 'selfie'

Design in a warm orange hue — French illustrator Jean- Philippe Delhomme injects some vivacity into his work with this light hearted design in a warm orange hue

Siska Lyssens has contributed to Wallpaper* since 2014, covering design in all its forms – from interiors to architecture and fashion. Now living in the U.S. after spending almost a decade in London, the Belgian journalist puts her creative branding cap on for various clients when not contributing to Wallpaper* or T Magazine.