Mickalene Thomas on Black beauty, eroticism and power
Mickalene Thomas’ four-city exhibition series ‘Beyond the Pleasure Principle’ at Lévy Gorvy galleries is a deep-dive into the power of the Black female body

To say that Mickalene Thomas is having a moment in 2021 is surely an understatement. The Brooklyn-based artist’s highly anticipated international exhibition, ‘Beyond the Pleasure Principle’ – a four-part multi-site presentation that sees Thomas unveil work in Lévy Gorvy galleries in New York, London, Paris and Hong Kong – is currently more than halfway through. Featuring interconnected bodies of work that range from paintings and illustrations to video pieces, the shows expand on Thomas’ decades-long study of the Black female body as a vehicle of power, eroticism, agency and inspiration.
‘The timing and scale of this exhibition meant that I needed to work on multiple different bodies of work simultaneously, within the context of our timeline,’ recalls Thomas. ‘Because the locations are so disparate, the exhibition was just as much about creating the bodies of work themselves based on the cultural audience as well as the social and political context currently in each city, which had a major influence.’
Mickalene Thomas in the studio, New York 2021. © Mickalene Thomas / Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York
The exhibition has been designed to suit each of its four locations. For the kick-off in New York in early September, Thomas debuted her latest large-scale Jet paintings, all inspired by vintage pin-ups from Jet magazine, known for its central role to Black American life since its beginnings in 1952. The anonymous pin-ups have been recontextualised by Thomas, using a diverse range of material techniques including silkscreen, oil, acrylic and rhinestones to celebrate their beauty, strength and individuality. In these works, Thomas not only co-opts the formal language of the avant-garde movement from the 19th and 20th centuries to convey freedom, fluidity and experimentation, she also inserts and emphasises the political paradigm of Black liberation – a true vanguard of American culture.
The narrative continues in London, where the second part of the series shines a brighter light on the historical context of the source material. Seven new Jet Blue paintings see Thomas use archival imagery from Jet and create a refreshed dialogue about beauty and identity against outdated cultural notions. These historic images hold an added significance since Thomas, who usually works with subjects she is intimately familiar with, grew up in the 1970s, and her adolescence has had such an overarching influence on her oeuvre. Thomas also debuts a film created with her life partner, collaborator and muse, Raquel Chevremont, titled Je T’aime Trois (2018).
Mickalene Thomas, February 1971, 2021. Rhinestones, acrylic and oil paint on canvas mounted on wood panel with mahogany frame. New York
Thomas has dedicated her practice to depicting Black beauty, femininity and power in a way that liberates these concepts from cultural oppression and marginalisation. Dialoguing with a beacon of Black American culture like Jet reinforces her commitment to making both historical and contemporary celebrations of Black identity, femininity, queerness and transgressiveness more visible.
‘The sequential presentation of the shows was crucial so that a full narrative could be established, [and] viewers could identify a journey,’ she continues. ‘The shows are separate – they have different aesthetic formalities with different references – but together, they form a thematically coherent and consistent thread related to the Black female body that stretches across the different cities in each country.’
Mickalene Thomas, March 1976, 2021. Rhinestones, glitter, acrylic and oil paint on, canvas mounted on wood panel with mahogany frame. New York
With the third and fourth chapters of the exhibition concurrently opening in Paris and Hong Kong in October, viewers have the chance to experience the full spectrum of Thomas’ vision in the flesh and virtually as well.
‘Having the works online allows viewers from anywhere to visit each of these cities through the installation videos featured, so the narration of this artistic journey could be seen by people in more than just a few countries,’ Thomas concludes.
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
INFORMATION
Mickalene Thomas, ‘Beyond the Pleasure Principle’, on view at Lévy Gorvy galleries in New York, London, Paris (until 13 November 2021) and Hong Kong (until 15 December 2021), levygorvy.com
Pei-Ru Keh is a former US Editor at Wallpaper*. Born and raised in Singapore, she has been a New Yorker since 2013. Pei-Ru held various titles at Wallpaper* between 2007 and 2023. She reports on design, tech, art, architecture, fashion, beauty and lifestyle happenings in the United States, both in print and digitally. Pei-Ru took a key role in championing diversity and representation within Wallpaper's content pillars, actively seeking out stories that reflect a wide range of perspectives. She lives in Brooklyn with her husband and two children, and is currently learning how to drive.
-
Beloved British screenwriter Dennis Potter inspires an exhibition with a difference at Studio Voltaire
Hilary Lloyd's multi-faceted exhibition at Studio Voltaire considers Dennis Potter's life and work, from much-loved TV classics to power inequalities
-
Insert here: London Design Festival gets intimate with insertable design
At London Design Festival, Heirloom Studio showcases 36 objects – some life-saving, some pleasure-giving, all made to go inside the body
-
Postcard from Helsinki Design Week 2025
Helsinki Design Week turns 20 this year. Celebrating two decades of design, core themes of this year revolve around happiness and optimism: here are design critic Hugo Macdonald's ten highlights
-
Stephen Prina borrows from pop, classical and modern music: now MoMA pays tribute to his performance work
‘Stephen Prina: A Lick and a Promise’ recalls the artist, musician, and composer’s performances, and is presented throughout MoMA. Prina tells us more
-
What's the story with Henni Alftan’s enigmatic, mysterious paintings? The artist isn’t saying
Paris-based artist Henni Alftan's familiar yet uncanny works are gloriously restrained. On the eve of a Sprüth Magers exhibition in Berlin, she tells us why
-
Home again: the artists reframing the domestic world
The humble home has fascinated artists for hundreds of years. But what, exactly, is the appeal? Artists including Andrew Cranston, Cece Philips and Do Ho Suh on magic in the mundane
-
From art to fashion, and back again: Jonathan Schofield’s figurative work is back in style
After graduating from London’s Royal College of Art, Jonathan Schofield began a career as a creative director at Stella McCartney. Now, he has returned to his first love, painting
-
Curtains up, Kid Harpoon rethinks the sound of Broadway production ‘Art’
He’s crafted hits with Harry Styles and Miley Cyrus; now songwriter and producer Kid Harpoon (aka Tom Hull) tells us about composing the music for the new, all-star Broadway revival of Yasmina Reza’s play ‘Art’
-
Richard Prince recontextualises archival advertisements in Texas
The artist unites his ‘Posters’ – based on ads for everything from cat pictures to nudes – at Hetzler, Marfa
-
The best Ruth Asawa exhibition is actually on the streets of San Francisco
The artist, now the subject of a major retrospective at SFMOMA, designed many public sculptures scattered across the Bay Area – you just have to know where to look
-
Orlando Museum of Art wants to showcase more Latin American and Hispanic artists. Do you fit the bill?
The Florida gallery calls for for Hispanic and Latin American artists to submit their work for an ongoing exhibition