Cerruti 1881 Paris S/S 2015
Sometimes two little letters can tell one big story, like the way designer Aldo Maria Camillo took Cerruti 1881 to LA for his spring 2015 show. Travels to California have profoundly relaxed this designer's sartorial track, which today manifested in a collection ripe with colour and an athletic edge, shying away from the house's typically structured narrative. Conjuring images of sweltering city heat and a subsequent seaside escape, Camillo cut baggy tees with scarf print trims (patterns that returned as loud silk shirts), as lug-soled sandals grounded the season's fluid suits and swinging coats. The latter were often worn two at a time in a series of rainbow check trenches and greatcoats, evolving Cerruti's story with more conviction than panelled nylon jogging pants, which felt more on-trend than on-brand. A trio of intarsia knits ribbed with palm fronds were a welcome splash of kitsch in this somewhat perplexing collection.
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