Annette Welander brings an offbeat cool to the classic diamond ear cuff
Annette Welander’s new pieces are a chic jewellery essential

Swedish jewellery designer Annette Welander brings a sculptural simplicity to pieces that encompass chic and clean silhouettes, interpreting the classic form of a diamond ear cuff in her new pieces.
‘Arches are a timeless symbol and are one of the single most important architectural discoveries,’ Welander says of what inspired the design. ‘Through a seemingly simple stacking, the complex nature of the arc generates the ability to perforate massive and otherwise hidden structures. The arch achieves the qualities of being self- supporting, stabilised by the force of gravity and it signifies the opening to new perspectives, the fact of seeing on the other side. We used the arch idea and transferred it to arcs defined by a segment of a circle, with the intention of shedding light onto what’s on the other side of the arch.’
The pieces are cast in distinctive Swedish red gold, which strikes a balance between rose and yellow gold in its elegant hue. ‘When you see pieces in this gold colour, it catches your eye immediately,’ Welander adds. ‘It is our signature gold but we also offer all our designs in sustainably sourced carbon-neutral 18ct red gold, yellow, rose and white gold to suit everyone’s personal taste.’
The ear cuffs eschew perfectly proportioned forms and are instead slightly offset. ‘This was a challenge and required a unique handcraft, since it is a complex design. For the rings and bracelets in the collection, all the arcs are made separately and after this, assembled together through a very special technique. To make the pieces offset you need to be very precise in your craftsmanship so that they will have a strong structure and last for generations. For the earrings, all of the arcs are mirror-turned so you have truly unique pieces.’
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Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat art trends and conducted in-depth profiles, as well as writing and commissioning extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys travelling, visiting artists' studios and viewing exhibitions around the world, and has interviewed artists and designers including Maggi Hambling, William Kentridge, Jonathan Anderson, Chantal Joffe, Lubaina Himid, Tilda Swinton and Mickalene Thomas.
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