W.W.W: a war-regulation watch for our times

Don Cochrane has taken a very considered line in reviving Vertex, the watchmaking business his great-grandfather started in 1916, focusing, for now at least, on the watches it produced for the War Office during and after the Second World War. Made to an exacting specification, these original Vertex models have found a growing audience of collectors for the combination of their quality, provenance and absolutely no-frills functional design. The ‘W.W.W.’ (watch, wrist, waterproof) government procurement order demanded watches with black dials, Arabic numerals, luminous hour and minute hands, luminous hour markers, a minute track and subsidiary seconds with the ‘broad arrow’ mark on the dial to indicate government property.
The revived Vertex watches stick closely to the formula: its M100 (and a black-coated version, the M100B), a re-imagined W.W.W. edict for the 21st-century. The brand has now followed this up with another watch based on a War Office commission. Intended as an ‘Ordinance Timer’, the watch was developed with Swiss manufature, Lémania but, as Britain’s post-war economy tightened, it never went into production. The MP45 shares the same combination of asymmetric case (the extra bulk is there to protect the crown and pusher) and monopusher chronograph movement as the original design intended and even shares the curiosity of having the chronograph reset through the crown.
As with the M100, the new watch is a little larger at 40mm than was standard in the 1940s and 50s and has a dial that’s just a little punchier thanks to the Super-Luminova numerals.
Don Cochrane, left, is now at the helm of the company begun by his great-grandfather. Right, the MP45
The MP45, left, shares the same combination of asymmetric case and monopusher chronograph movement as the original design. Right, founder Claude Lyons
INFORMATION
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
James Gurney has written on watches for over 25 years, founding QP Magazine in 2003, the UK’s first home-grown watch title. In 2009, he initiated SalonQP, one of the first watch fairs to focus on the end-consumer, and is regarded as a leading horological voice contributing to news and magazine titles across the globe.
-
Highlights from the transporting Cruise 2026 shows
The Cruise 2026 season began yesterday with a Chanel show at Lake Como, heralding the start of a series of jet-setting, destination runway shows from fashion’s biggest houses
-
Behind the design of national pavilions in Venice: three studios to know
Designing the British, Swiss and Mexican national pavilions at the Venice Architecture Biennale 2025 are three outstanding studios to know before you go
-
Premium patisserie Naya is Mayfair’s latest sweet spot
Heritage meets opulence at Naya bakery in Mayfair, London. With interiors by India Hicks and Anna Goulandris, the patisserie looks good enough to eat
-
Vacheron Constantin unveils the Historiques 222 to mark 45 years since the model’s launch
Vacheron Constantin restates its place in the pantheon of ‘sports chic’ watches
-
This Timex retro quartz watch is straight from the 1970s
The Q Timex 1972 Reissue watch stays faithful to the design codes of the original
-
Classic meets cool in Nomos Glashütte’s platinum grey watch design
Two new Tangente Neomatik watches draw on Nomos Glashütte’s clean German design codes
-
Girard-Perregaux goes back to the future with rethought Casquette watch
Girard-Perregaux pays tribute to its original 1970s watch with the new and updated Casquette 2.0
-
G-Shock marks 40 years of youth culture with limited-edition watch
G-Shock and the Museum of Youth Culture look to the archives for the new GW-M5610MOYC-1ER watch
-
Ten watch brands mark Mr Porter’s anniversary with special editions
Ten watch brands, including Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin and Bell & Ross, are celebrating Mr Porter’s tenth anniversary in style
-
Atelier Oï’s Louis Erard watch is inspired by a minimalist sundial
Atelier Oï has rethought the Louis Erard Le Régulateur watch with a minimalist dial, engraved as if with rays of light
-
Nomos Autobahn watch is rethought by designer Werner Aisslinger
Three new models make up the Nomos Autobahn Director’s Cut Limited Edition watch series, in motoring-inspired hues