Rick Owens rebels for S/S 2014

The designer channels thrash metal for his menswear show in Paris

Rick Owens opened his show with an astonishing live performance by Estonian thrash metal band Winny Puhh. It was quite a feat to take in all the detail, what with the models striding along with hard vigour on the wide walkway next to the sound of thrashing guitars and pummelling drums in a darkened grand salle inside Bercy Stadium. And before you thought things couldn't get any more surreal, the mesmerising band stepped things up a notch, with one guitarist performing while being strung upside down from the ceiling. But Owens went on to present one of his most exciting collections to date. Fans will be delighted with what the Californian-born designer, who has risen to a God-like status among his followers, proposed. All-black leather tunics with zips and skin-revealing laser-cut perforations were matched with custom-made white trainers. Lightweight jumpsuits, or onesies, are a developing trend on the runways so far, and Owens also offered this for spring. Leather basketball vest tops were key to the look, as were variations on bomber jackets, oversized jackets and baggy shorts. At Owens' house, hip hop fused seamlessly with goth, for a real moment in menswear.

Fashion Features Editor

Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.