Jewellery

We turn our well-trained loupe onto the rising stars of the jewellery firmament

Feather-like earrings
(Image credit: Probing the vicissitudes of desire and sensual experience as both ‘personal feeling and advertising method’, Aysia Stieb combines colour-saturated candid moments from fashion shoots with studio-constructed still-lives. ‘Movement is always a part of my work,’ she says.)

Fu, a Shanghai-based designer and winner of CSM’s Autor graduate award, likes to focus on the intimate connection between jewellery –  her preferred metal is gold – and the body. When worn, her feather-like earrings create, she says, ‘an unexpected pretty, crisp sound’. Dream collaborator: Photographer Tim Walker

yuzojewellery.com

Fresh faces: the jewellery graduates making their mark

Photography: Aditya Babbar. Fashion: Lune Kuipers. Writer: Caragh McKay

Woman in black dress

(Image credit: Aditya Babbar)

Hegney displays a beautifully precise style, but her main fascination is with the colour blue, which she expresses through a varied material palette. ‘Lapis lazuli can be stone set or crushed into a powder,’ she says, ‘while jesmonite and wood can be dyed using powder pigment.’ Dream collaborator: Iris van Herpen.

caitlinhegney.co.uk

Woman wearing large patterned necklace

(Image credit: Aditya Babbar)

‘There’s an assumption that chains are subservient to the main jewel. I enable them to achieve jewellery status on their own,’ explains Fabian, a Hungarian-born Cartier Scholarship winner whose woven chainmail piece displays a craftsman’s touch. Dream collaborator: Someone with good work ethics and humility.

veronikafabian.com

Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat art trends and conducted in-depth profiles, as well as writing and commissioning extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys travelling, visiting artists' studios and viewing exhibitions around the world, and has interviewed artists and designers including Maggi Hambling, William Kentridge, Jonathan Anderson, Chantal Joffe, Lubaina Himid, Tilda Swinton and Mickalene Thomas.