We turn our well-trained loupe onto the rising stars of the jewellery firmament

Feather-like earrings
(Image credit: Probing the vicissitudes of desire and sensual experience as both ‘personal feeling and advertising method’, Aysia Stieb combines colour-saturated candid moments from fashion shoots with studio-constructed still-lives. ‘Movement is always a part of my work,’ she says.)

Fu, a Shanghai-based designer and winner of CSM’s Autor graduate award, likes to focus on the intimate connection between jewellery –  her preferred metal is gold – and the body. When worn, her feather-like earrings create, she says, ‘an unexpected pretty, crisp sound’. Dream collaborator: Photographer Tim Walker

Fresh faces: the jewellery graduates making their mark

Photography: Aditya Babbar. Fashion: Lune Kuipers. Writer: Caragh McKay

Woman in black dress

(Image credit: Aditya Babbar)

Hegney displays a beautifully precise style, but her main fascination is with the colour blue, which she expresses through a varied material palette. ‘Lapis lazuli can be stone set or crushed into a powder,’ she says, ‘while jesmonite and wood can be dyed using powder pigment.’ Dream collaborator: Iris van Herpen.

Woman wearing large patterned necklace

(Image credit: Aditya Babbar)

‘There’s an assumption that chains are subservient to the main jewel. I enable them to achieve jewellery status on their own,’ explains Fabian, a Hungarian-born Cartier Scholarship winner whose woven chainmail piece displays a craftsman’s touch. Dream collaborator: Someone with good work ethics and humility.

Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, and written extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys meeting artists and designers, viewing exhibitions and conducting interviews on her frequent travels.