Timeless and iconic: the Bowes Museum hosts UK's first ever Yves Saint Laurent retrospective

Yves Saint Laurent clothes displayed on mannequins

England’s Bowes Museum has staged a remarkable coup by bagging the UK’s first-ever Yves Saint Laurent retrospective, running until 25 October 2015

(Image credit: TBC)

By Christopher Stocks

last updated 3 August 2022

Fans of fashion history have until 25 October to make the pilgrimage to what may count as England’s remotest major museum, which has staged a remarkable coup by bagging the UK’s first ever Yves Saint Laurent retrospective. The Bowes Museum is a vast French château plonked improbably down next to the pretty little north-country market town of Barnard Castle, surrounded by the spectacularly beautiful landscape of upper Teesdale. Built in the mid-19th century by John and Joséphine Bowes to house their vast treasury of art, furniture and porcelain, the museum also has a superb fashion collection. Joséphine was a French actress and the couple spent most of their lives in Paris (where John bought her a theatre), so the connection with Yves Saint Laurent actually makes brilliant sense.

It’s certainly a thrilling exhibition, tracing the precociously talented Saint Laurent’s stratospheric rise from dreamy schoolboy (the show includes some of the paper mannequins he dressed in cut-out couture) to Christian Dior’s right-hand man and successor, before setting up on his own with his long-time partner Pierre Bergé, the business brains behind YSL. Every aspect of Saint Laurent’s 40-year career is represented, from the original ‘Le Smoking’ tuxedo to his enchantingly bright-eyed celebrations of Mondrian and pop, and his effortlessly stylish sketches for the runway shows, still pinned with sample fabrics; there's even an entire wall of hats in every shape and size, revealing that his imagination was every bit as fertile when it came to accessories.

Introducing the show, Bergé – now in his 80s – rather touchingly described their relationship as one in which ‘creativity always came first. We were never motivated by business: the business was only a success because of Yves’ creative genius.’ If only more ‘creative’ businesses could say the same today.

Six YVS dresses on mannequins — The exhibition traces the precociously talented Saint Laurent’s rise from Christian Dior’s right-hand man and successor, to setting up on his own with his long-time partner Pierre Bergé

Floating hats on display of different shapes and sizes — Hats of every shape and size are on display in the show

Wedding dress inspired by Shakespeare — 'Wedding dress' – a tribute to William Shakespeare. *Photography courtesy Yves Saint Laurent and Fondation Pierre Bergé*

Embroidered jacket — Embroidered evening jacket, from the S/S 1991 haute couture collection. *Photography courtesy Yves Saint Laurent and Fondation Pierre Bergé*

Short cocktail dress in bold colours — Yves Saint Laurent's famous short cocktail dress – a tribute to Piet Mondrian. *Photography courtesy Yves Saint Laurent and Fondation Pierre Bergé*

Black dress with red bust — One of YSL's other cocktail dresses, this time inspired by pop art. *Photography courtesy Yves Saint Laurent and Fondation Pierre Bergé*

Two male smart suits and clothing on mannequin — Pictured are the pantsuit (left); and the long evening ensemble (right). *Photography courtesy Yves Saint Laurent and Fondation Pierre Bergé*

Black evening gown with lace back design — Short evening gown worn by Marina Schiano. *Photography courtesy the Estate of Jeanloup Sieff*

Paper doll design sketches — Pictured: two different outfits for the ‘Suzy’ doll – paper ensembles cut out of magazines and glued onto cardboard, 1935–1954. *Photography courtesy Yves Saint Laurent and Fondation Pierre Bergé*

Paper doll drawings of dress and jacket — Two other ‘Suzy’ doll outfits, 1935–1954. *Photography courtesy Yves Saint Laurent and Fondation Pierre Bergé*

Pencil sketch of dress — A detail from YSL atelier's specification sheet, from the A/W 1968 haute couture collection. *Photography courtesy Yves Saint Laurent and Fondation Pierre Bergé*

Sketches and material brainstorming on paper — ‘Soir Long Broderies’ collection board, S/S 1988 haute couture collection. *Photography courtesy Yves Saint Laurent and Fondation Pierre Bergé*

Material texture and colour brainstorming — Collection board A/W 1970, haute couture collection. *Photography courtesy Yves Saint Laurent and Fondation Pierre Bergé*

Black and white photo of woman in dress — Evening ensemble worn by Nicole; 'Opéra-Ballets Russes' from the A/W 1976 haute couture collection, at Hôtel InterContinental, Paris. *Photography courtesy Yves Saint Laurent and Fondation Pierre Bergé*

Model on catwalk wearing pink starred cape — Evening ensemble worn by Amalia; A/W 2000 haute couture collection, at Hôtel InterContinental, Paris. *Photography courtesy Yves Saint Laurent and Fondation Pierre Bergé*

Model on catwalk wearing blue dress — Haute couture collection, F/W 1976. *Photography courtesy Yves Saint Laurent and Fondation Pierre Bergé*

Transparent evening gown in black — Evening gown, A/W 1968 haute couture collection; worn in a retrospective fashion show at the Centre Pompidou in January 2002. *Photography courtesy Yves Saint Laurent and Fondation Pierre Bergé*

Evening dress with bird design — Haute couture collection, S/S 1988. *Photography courtesy Yves Saint Laurent and Fondation Pierre Bergé*

Orange cape with bird design on back — A piece from the haute couture collection, S/S 1988. *Photography courtesy Yves Saint Laurent and Fondation Pierre Bergé*

Evening gown with long cape in yellow — Evening ensemble worn by Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, from the A/W 1983 haute couture collection. *Photography courtesy Yves Saint Laurent and Fondation Pierre Bergé*

Black and white photo of artist drawing sketches — Yves Saint Laurent at work in his studio at 5 Avenue Marceau, Paris, in 1976

Black and white photo of Yves Saint Laurent — Yves Saint Laurent, photographed by Pierre Bergé, while on holiday in Concarneau, 1966 (right); and at work (left). *Photography courtesy Yves Saint Laurent and Fondation Pierre Bergé*

Photograph of Pierre Bergé — Pierre Bergé at the Bowes Museum on the show's opening night. *Photography: Andy Barnham*

ADDRESS

The Bowes Museum
Barnard Castle
County Durham
DL12 8NP

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