Wind, water, rock and even dirt ruled the A/W 2015 catwalk. Stefano Pilati’s collection for Ermenegildo Zegna Couture, presented in a room with thick soil walls, featured traditional Harris tweeds glazed with a needle-punched recycled plastic coating.
Stone Island’s emerald green vest is water – and wind – resistant but reveals itself in new ways thanks to a reflective underlying material coated in thousands of glass microspheres. And Victorinox’s limited edition Gallen Parka is designed for country and city.
So this season, jackets are softly sculpted, padded and worn layered. Pockets are deep and tailored trousers are paired with rubber-soled Chelsea boots.
----
The bucolic scene pictured was created by Matt Wright, one half of garden accessories brand Wright & Doyle, with partner Bella Doyle. Wright describes his design as ‘prairie planting on a small scale’, and explains that ‘I wanted to make a selection of plants that would complement each other in the studio but could also be found in a more natural environment.’
To create the natural effect, he used grasses such as Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’ and Stipa tenuissima, along with a mix of herbaceous perennials including Salvia nemorosa ‘Caradonna’, calamint, valerian and Helenium 'Potter’s Wheel’. They brought an unexpected extra too: ‘They added a wonderfully sweet scent to the studio,’ says Wright.
As originally featured in the December 2015 issue of Wallpaper* (W*201)
Pictured left: jacket, £1,210, jumper, £225, roll-neck, £160, trousers, £315, all by Kenzo. Right: coat, £845, roll-neck, £165, both by MHL by Margaret Howell. Jacket, £835, by Moncler. Trousers, £345, by Margaret Howell
Coat, £2,630; jacket, £2,090; cardigan, £1,140; trousers, £790; boots, £1,060, all by Ermenegildo Zegna Couture
INFORMATION
Hair: Hiroshi Matsushita using Kiehl’s. Make-up: Rebecca Wordingham at Saint Luke using Shu Uemura. Manicurist: Saffron Goddard using Chanel Christmas 2015 and Body Excellence Hand Cream. Set design: Matthew Wright at Wright & Doyle. Model: Nathan Saignes at Established. Fashion: Jason Hughes
-
'Design at its most ambitious': meet the 2025 Royal Designers for IndustryThe Royal Society for Arts announces the five new Royal Designers for Industry as well as two Honorary Royal Designers for Industry
-
A new art museum brings colour, quirk and a celebration of creativity to DohaLawh Wa Qalam: M. F. Husain Museum is awash with colour and character, courtesy of Indian architect Martand Khosla and the Qatar Foundation
-
Out of office: The Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the weekThis week, the Wallpaper* team had its finger on the pulse of architecture, interiors and fashion – while also scooping the latest on the Radiohead reunion and London’s buzziest pizza
-
These illuminating fashion interviews tell the story of style in 2024Selected by fashion features editor Jack Moss from the pages of Wallpaper*, these interviews tell the stories behind the designers who have shaped 2024 – from Kim Jones to Tory Burch, Willy Chavarria to Martine Rose
-
‘I was captivated by the idea of merging two iconic brands’: Nigo on his 1990s-inspired collaboration with Moncler and Mercedes-BenzUnveiled at Moncler’s ‘The City of Genius’ event in Shanghai this past weekend, Japanese fashion designer Nigo unpacks his three-way collaboration with Moncler and Mercedes-Benz, which includes a play on the G-Class alongside a fashion collection in his eclectic style
-
‘If you’re a proper designer, you can design many different forms’: Jony Ive unpacks his modular LoveFrom, Moncler outerwear collectionFive years in the making, LoveFrom and Moncler’s shape-shifting jacket collection marks a new direction for Jony Ive. Speaking to Laura May Todd in Milan, he talks forging new paths and staying curious
-
Revisiting the showstopping runway sets of men’s fashion weekAs Men’s Fashion Week S/S 2025 draws to a close, Wallpaper* picks the season’s most transporting runway sets, from giant cats at Dior Men to a ‘fairytale ravescape’ at Prada
-
Pitti Uomo 106: what we learnt from the Florence menswear fairWhile this season’s Pitti Uomo guest designers embraced Florence’s uniquely cinematic setting, at the fair itself, brands presented comprehensive offerings that crossed seasons and celebrated Italian craft
-
Mizuno for Margaret Howell is this summer’s most considered sportswearThe latest chapter of Margaret Howell’s collaboration with Japanese sportswear brand Mizuno has been revealed, featuring ultra-lightweight fabrications and sleek, utilitarian design
-
Utilitarian men’s fashion that will elevate your everydayFrom Prada to Margaret Howell, utilitarian and workwear-inspired men’s fashion gets an upgrade for S/S 2024
-
First look at Moncler’s blockbuster new exhibition, which turns Milan Central Station into an immersive public galleryWallpaper* takes an exclusive look at Moncler’s new Jefferson Hack-curated exhibition, which features portraits of an eclectic cast of international creatives, including artist Daniel Arsham, musician Rina Sawayama and make-up artist Isamaya Ffrench
