Mood board: Today, design houses flourish on dichotomy. A successful couture house might also produce a best-selling sneaker, a strong digital presence that enraptures millennials but also a traditional made-to-measure service. For S/S 2020, Givenchy creative director Clare Waight Keller revelled in ‘dissonance’, presenting a collection that celebrated 90s minimalism (a strong trend for spring), romantic ethereality and bohemianism. The show’s opening soundtrack, I’m a Tomboy, by Princess Nokia, signalled a sleek androgynous mood, brimming with neutral leathers, stonewashed denim and Bermuda short suits, paired with chunky sliders and sculptural mules. Elsewhere, a more romantic focus came into play (with plenty of red carpet options for front rowers Maisie Williams and Euphoria’s Hunter Schafer), with finesse juxtaposed against flou, like poplin dresses with tropical blooms and long gowns festooned with floral 3D embroidery.
Best in show: The show’s opening looks tapped into spring’s penchant for minimalism, seen at both Deveaux and Hermès. A caramel trench coat was cut from glossy buttery leather, a sleeveless double breasted dress from delicate houndstooth and a short suit had a slim silhouette and a plunging neckline.
Finishing touches: Across the spring catwalks brands have cemented their commitment to sustainable practices. The 90s-inspired denim in the collection, which included tattered boyfriend jeans, and a two tone double breasted coat was crafted using upcycled denim.
