Mood board: Today, design houses flourish on dichotomy. A successful couture house might also produce a best-selling sneaker, a strong digital presence that enraptures millennials but also a traditional made-to-measure service. For S/S 2020, Givenchy creative director Clare Waight Keller revelled in ‘dissonance’, presenting a collection that celebrated 90s minimalism (a strong trend for spring), romantic ethereality and bohemianism. The show’s opening soundtrack, I’m a Tomboy, by Princess Nokia, signalled a sleek androgynous mood, brimming with neutral leathers, stonewashed denim and Bermuda short suits, paired with chunky sliders and sculptural mules. Elsewhere, a more romantic focus came into play (with plenty of red carpet options for front rowers Maisie Williams and Euphoria’s Hunter Schafer), with finesse juxtaposed against flou, like poplin dresses with tropical blooms and long gowns festooned with floral 3D embroidery.
Best in show: The show’s opening looks tapped into spring’s penchant for minimalism, seen at both Deveaux and Hermès. A caramel trench coat was cut from glossy buttery leather, a sleeveless double breasted dress from delicate houndstooth and a short suit had a slim silhouette and a plunging neckline.
Finishing touches: Across the spring catwalks brands have cemented their commitment to sustainable practices. The 90s-inspired denim in the collection, which included tattered boyfriend jeans, and a two tone double breasted coat was crafted using upcycled denim.
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These sculptural mirrors embody the relaxed spirit of the MedPhotographed in a Mallorcan residence designed by local studio Munarq, these new sculptural mirrors by New York furniture company Ready To Hang are inspired by the sea
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African brutalism explored: from bold experimentation to uncertain futureDiscover the complex and manifold legacies of brutalist architecture in Africa with writer and curator Fabiola Büchele
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What to see at Frieze Seoul 2025Don't miss this mix of contemporary and established artists at Frieze Seoul, 3-6 September; here’s our guide to the fair and what's on around the city
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Inspired by Robert Mapplethorpe, A/W 2025’s best menswear captures a ‘menacing elegance’‘A menacing, seductive elegance,’ is how Anthony Vaccarello described his A/W 2025 menswear collection for Saint Laurent, capturing a mood that ran through the season. Here, as seen in Wallpaper’s September 2025 cover shoot and film, a series of looks that invite a sense of risk when dressing for the months ahead
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How Bureau Betak transformed the runway show: ‘Our currency is emotion and memory’Pioneering production company Bureau Betak has masterminded some of the most inspiring runway sets of the last 30 years, dazzling both real-life guests and an ever-growing virtual global audience. Hugo Macdonald meets the people behind the magic
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‘Never copy the past’: how Nicolas Di Felice is taking Courrèges into the futureAt Courrèges, artistic director Nicolas Di Felice is marrying radical thinking, raving and reinterpreted minimalist codes to give the French fashion house a new dynamism. Hannah Tindle heads to Paris to meet the designer
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Glenn Martens’ thrilling Maison Margiela debut was a balancing act between past, present and futureThe Belgian designer made his debut for the house last night with a collection that looked towards medieval decoration for a new expression of opulence
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Art meets perfume in cross-disciplinary fragrance series Nez 1+1Talents from film and fragrance come together to create Ansongo, the latest scent resulting from a creative matchmaking project by perfume revue Nez
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Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: what to expectFive moments to look out for at Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 in Paris (starting Monday 7 July), from Glenn Martens’ debut for Maison Margiela to Demna’s Balenciaga swansong. Plus, ‘new beginnings’ from JW Anderson
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The collections you might have missed this S/S 2026 menswear seasonBetween the headliners in Paris, Milan and Florence, a few off-schedule displays are deserving of honourable mention – from Martine Rose’s sexually-charged portrait of Kensington Market to Sander Lak’s appointment-only namesake debut
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‘They gave me carte blanche to do what I want’: Paul Kooiker photographs the students of Gerrit Rietveld Academie for Acne StudiosHeralding the launch of a new permanent gallery from fashion label Acne Studios, the celebrated Dutch photographer’s new body of work praises the bravery of ‘people who choose to go to an art school at a time like this’
