Mood board: The show – named ‘Orlando’ – was the second part of a three act project by the brand. The final stage will culminate in a series of costumes designed for the Vienna State Opera’s world premier of Orlando, composed by Olga Neuwirth. It is a version of Virginia Woolf’s gender defying 1928 novel which sees a poet travel through 300 years of history, starting as a nobleman under Elizabeth I’s reign, changing sex from male to female along the way. ‘My love of clothes interests me profoundly,’ Woolf wrote in her diary in 1925. Rei Kawakubo’s interest spanned the Elizabethan era, 18th century, the modern age and the future, and her collection featured a series of bulbous, brocade heavy constructions, uncharacteristically adorned with 3D florals, flounces of tulle and macramé, or sporting protective padding, the Comme des Garçons and resplendent fringing.
Best in show: Of the more Elizabethan silhouettes, a bubble like pannier skirt was formed from a glittering bright blue and fuchsia jacquard paneled with a patchwork of golden squares. More futuristic was a sporty pair of leggings with bulging knee pads, paired with a tailored jacket and a rose red opera coat, embellished with frothy flounces of tulle resembling silk. This was escapist liberation of time through clothing.
Finishing touches: Models sported pretty patchwork ankle boots or delicate ballet flats with socks which tied up the leg like tiny gaiters. §
