Tom Ford S/S 2020 New York Fashion Week Women's

Tom Ford S/S 2020 catwalk — (Image credit: press)

Scene setting: After seasons of showing in the storied setting of the Park Avenue Amory, Tom Ford decided to move everything downtown to a decommissioned subway station on Bowery. Certainly a departure from his previous well-heeled soirees, the newly inaugurated president of the CFDA lead guests down a staircase admist crumbling tiles to a subterranean subway platform (complete with transit workers in uniform), where the show was set.

Mood board: Presented against the subway signage, Spring/Summer 2020 took on a rebellious, punk-inspired vibe with the opening looks teaming jewel-toned ballgown skirts with t-shirts and rolled-up sleeves. From the shiny blazers worn with hot pants and seamed nylon tights, to fluid culottes and slinky v-neck jumpsuits, it was clear that Ford was feeling in an 80s mood. The menswear offering, which Ford showed simultaneously, was equally boisterous with colourful animal prints, leather baseball jackets and nehru collars all getting a look in.

Finishing touches: The retro feel of the collection carried over to the season's accessories, which included foiled leather stiletto heels with ankle ties, sleek all-white leather boots, structured handbags with hardware and angular sunglasses. Best of all might have been the glossy, sculpted breastplates, which toed the line between jewellery and lingerie.

TOPICS

Pei-Ru Keh is a former US Editor at Wallpaper*. Born and raised in Singapore, she has been a New Yorker since 2013. Pei-Ru held various titles at Wallpaper* between 2007 and 2023. She reports on design, tech, art, architecture, fashion, beauty and lifestyle happenings in the United States, both in print and digitally. Pei-Ru took a key role in championing diversity and representation within Wallpaper's content pillars, actively seeking out stories that reflect a wide range of perspectives. She lives in Brooklyn with her husband and two children, and is currently learning how to drive.