Khaite S/S 2020 New York Fashion Week Women's

Backstage at Khaite S/S 2020 — Khaite S/S 2020.

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Mood board: A trip back to her grandparents' former home in Woodstock, Vermont proved to be the starting point for Khaite's creative director, Catherine Holstein, to craft the label's newest collection. Inspired by flashes of childhood memories, along with a pastiche of ancient quilts, flowery curtains, a braided rug and a herringbone floor, Holstein injected a feeling of the familiar and universal into Khaite's well-tailored offerings.

Scene setting: Staged at the performing arts centre St. Ann's Warehouse, located along Brooklyn's waterfront, Khaite's runway presentation featured models meandering in and around a skyhigh pile of nostalgic bent wood chairs. Against this backdrop, Holstein presented the label's first foray into prints – harlequin patterns, blanket-like plaids and Paisley florals, which were worked into the label's sculptural silhouettes. Wrapped shapes, flounced sleeves and voluminous skirts were juxtaposed by clean cut denim, cropped lengths and tailored suede for a contemporary finish.

Finishing touches: Despite having just made it's debut last season, Khaite's expanded handbag offering was particularly memorable. This season saw two new styles introduced – it's spin on a frame bag, which was shown in multiple sizes and colours, and a less structured 'croissant' shape that embodies the polished, yet easy sensibility that the label has become known for.

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Pei-Ru Keh is a former US Editor at Wallpaper*. Born and raised in Singapore, she has been a New Yorker since 2013. Pei-Ru held various titles at Wallpaper* between 2007 and 2023. She reports on design, tech, art, architecture, fashion, beauty and lifestyle happenings in the United States, both in print and digitally. Pei-Ru took a key role in championing diversity and representation within Wallpaper's content pillars, actively seeking out stories that reflect a wide range of perspectives. She lives in Brooklyn with her husband and two children, and is currently learning how to drive.