Mood board: ‘It was about looking and questioning’ said Anderson backstage after his S/S 2020 show. ‘The ability in fashion of being able to refocus.’ And there was plenty to look at inside the designer’s usual bleacher-lined Bloomsbury show venue. Draped one sleeve dresses with a rhinestone smattered infinity-shaped breast pieces and belts, lurex harem pant suiting, colourful fringed shirting, splodgy Dalmatian prints and leather drawstring pouches slung in threes over the shoulder. Anderson spoke of ‘noise cancellation’ and honing in on details in the oddly specific and eccentric style he is renowned for. Take boned blazers, their fronts ‘blown up in Marie Antoinette style’ and backs deflated, bejeweled sandals designed to barely stay on the foot and beaded daises covering breasts inspired by ‘1970s iconography.’
Scene setting: ‘It was about the idea of ephemera,’ Anderson added, referencing the show’s venue set up, which featured the artwork Pet Co. (2018), by Vancouver-based artist visual artist Liz Magor, made up of boxes of transparent plastic museum casings, holding colourful childhood toys. The installation spoke of things once treasured, lost, found and given new meaning, in the same way fashion works to bring new modernity to silhouettes, techniques and shapes. ‘It’s about taking things we no longer want and repositioning them,’ Anderson said.
Finishing touches: Anderson focused on the idea of jewellery and it’s ability to ‘become armour or something more sensual,’ seen in rhinestone sparking breast harnesses, repositioned as a form of underwear worn as an outer layer on the body, worn both as a form of protection and adornment
JW Anderson S/S 2020
JW Anderson S/S 2020
JW Anderson S/S 2020
JW Anderson S/S 2020
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This Toronto pizzeria hides a sultry bar with serious biteNorth of Brooklyn unveils a fresh, two-level outpost where crisp, light-filled minimalism gives way to a warmer, neon-lit upstairs area
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A Lagos exhibition celebrates Fela Kuti's defining soundAn exhibition, Afrobeat Rebellion, currently showing at the Ecobank PanAfrican Centre in Lagos, explores the life of Afrobeat father Fela Anikulapo-Kuti
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The Architecture Edit: Wallpaper’s houses of the monthFrom wineries-turned-music studios to fire-resistant holiday homes, these are the properties that have most impressed the Wallpaper* editors this month
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‘Architect of glamour’ Antony Price makes a high-voltage return to the runway with 16ArlingtonFeaturing a runway debut from Lily Allen, the show saw legendary designer Antony Price – best known for outfitting Roxy Music in the 1980s – unite with 16Arlington’s Marco Capaldo on the sensual after-dark collection
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‘Dirty Looks’ at the Barbican explores how fashion designers have found beauty in dirt and decayFrom garments buried in River Thames mud to those torn, creased and stained, ‘Dirty Looks’ is a testament to how ‘creativity and new artistic practices can come out of decay’, its curators tell Dal Chodha
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Tyler Mitchell’s London show explores the figure of the Black Dandy, ‘imagining what else masculinity could look like’Originally part of a visual essay to accompany the Met’s ‘Superfine’ 2025 Costume Institute exhibition, ‘Portrait of the Modern Dandy’ goes on display at Gagosian Burlington Arcade in London this week
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Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: what to expectFive moments to look out for at Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 in Paris (starting Monday 7 July), from Glenn Martens’ debut for Maison Margiela to Demna’s Balenciaga swansong. Plus, ‘new beginnings’ from JW Anderson
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Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
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Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
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Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
