Mood board: In recent season’s Kane’s been revelling in the eroticism of sex, and its accompanying oddities and fetishes. Cue S/S 2018’s sexy yet saccharine rubber glove clad-housewives, inspired by Eighties South London brothel owner Cynthia Payne, or A/W 2019’s offering, nodding to balloon or rubber fetishists. Fashion’s relationship with the environment is spring’s most pressing topic (peaceful Extinction Rebellion protestors are a common show venue backdrop), and fittingly for S/S 2020 Kane took cues from people obsessed with the natural world. Photographic wildflower and cloud prints emblazoned tailored coats, t-shirt dresses and leg of mutton sleeve jackets, and in the designer’s typically subversive and futuristic style, natural prints were juxtaposed against neon lace and chainmail, petal shapes were formed slivers of gel and sweaters were printed with otherworldly Martian forms.
Scene setting: Inside a vast underground industrial space in Camden, walls projected photographic prints of meadows and clouds. A computerised female voice reiterated the ‘Eco Sexual’ nature of his collection, repeating the words ‘The stones, the flowers, the soil’, all sexual fodder for nature’s erotic obsessives.
Best in show: Kane fans look out for the self referential notes in his collections, like the photographic floral prints here which looked back to the ethereal applique florals in his S/S 2012 collection. Last season, Kane alluded to the gel-filled plastics he used in his A/W 2011 collection and for spring again, accessories and jewellery were made from glittering gel-filled plastics. The natural and the man made – two forces both fashion and the wider world is confronting today.
Christopher Kane S/S 2020.
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A cubist house rises in Mexico City, its concrete volumes providing a bold urban refugeCasa Ailes, a cubist house by Jaime Guzmán Creative Group, is rich in architectural expression that mimics the dramatic and inviting nature of a museum
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David/Nicolas raise contemporary craft to a canter at this new Abu Dhabi riding schoolThe Lebanese design duo draw on Emirati equestrian heritage to create two contemporary spaces for ADREA, a new school of classical horsemanship
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Piet Oudolf is the world’s meadow-garden master: tour his most soul-soothing outdoor spacesPiet Oudolf is one of the most impactful contemporary masters of landscape and garden design; explore our ultimate guide to his work
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‘Architect of glamour’ Antony Price makes a high-voltage return to the runway with 16ArlingtonFeaturing a runway debut from Lily Allen, the show saw legendary designer Antony Price – best known for outfitting Roxy Music in the 1980s – unite with 16Arlington’s Marco Capaldo on the sensual after-dark collection
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‘Dirty Looks’ at the Barbican explores how fashion designers have found beauty in dirt and decayFrom garments buried in River Thames mud to those torn, creased and stained, ‘Dirty Looks’ is a testament to how ‘creativity and new artistic practices can come out of decay’, its curators tell Dal Chodha
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Tyler Mitchell’s London show explores the figure of the Black Dandy, ‘imagining what else masculinity could look like’Originally part of a visual essay to accompany the Met’s ‘Superfine’ 2025 Costume Institute exhibition, ‘Portrait of the Modern Dandy’ goes on display at Gagosian Burlington Arcade in London this week
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Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
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Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
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Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
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Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
