Thom Browne S/S 2016

Thom Browne S/S 2016
(Image credit: Umberto Fratini, Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Scene setting: Thom Browne whisked us away to a topsy-turvy world, by way of a twisted schoolhouse (complete with a front garden on the ceiling) that had landed on some poor Thom Browne-clad soul (a pair of legs and shoes were visible unsquashed underneath). Haunting music gave the arrangement of school desks, each primed with notebook and pencil, an even more foreboding quality. And as the procession of schoolgirl/models appeared wearing braided pigtails that stood on end through their Stephen Jones straw boater hats, the fairy-tale gone wrong developed in full swing.

Mood board: Browne's classic suits were emblazoned kimono-style with Japanese motifs such as oversized flowers, cherry blossom branches, willow leaves and even abstracted portraits of geishas, in a myriad of textures and colours. Below-the-knee, box-pleated skirts played up the schoolgirl feel while also resembling samurai armour, and iridescent appliqué and pastel coloured furs infused the pieces with a naive, but elevated vibe.

Best in show: The closing series of looks, which were predominantly realised in stark black and white, possessed an incredibly graphic quality that gave  the models' Japanese/Charlie Chaplin make-up a renewed artistic quality. Browne's ability to combine apparently disparate sources of inspirations that somehow make natural sense in his world is something to be truly commended and admired.

Thom Browne S/S 2016

(Image credit: Umberto Fratini, Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Thom Browne S/S 2016

(Image credit: Umberto Fratini, Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Thom Browne S/S 2016

(Image credit: Umberto Fratini, Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Thom Browne S/S 2016

(Image credit: Umberto Fratini, Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Thom Browne S/S 2016

(Image credit: Umberto Fratini, Jason Lloyd-Evans)

INFORMATION

Photography: Umberto Fratini, Jason Lloyd-Evans

Pei-Ru Keh is the US Editor at Wallpaper*. Born and raised in Singapore, she has been a New Yorker since 2013. Pei-Ru has held various titles at Wallpaper* since she joined in 2007. She currently reports on design, art, architecture, fashion, beauty and lifestyle happenings in the United States, both in print and digitally. Pei-Ru has taken a key role in championing diversity and representation within Wallpaper's content pillars and actively seeks out stories that reflect a wide range of perspectives. She lives in Brooklyn with her husband and two children, and is currently learning how to drive.