Jason Wu S/S 2016
Best in show: Tailoring has always been a known forte of Jason Wu’s, but for S/S 2016, the designer freed things up a little by using softer fabrics and plenty of ruffles to realise his structured silhouettes. Classic shapes like slip dresses, trench coats and pencil skirts took on a more carefree, almost flirtatious feel. The opening series of coats and blazers, crafted from frayed cashmere, had fringed edges fluttering like feathers as it moved, while flirty halter dresses were made even more feminine courtesy of flouncy skirt ruffles.
Mood board: Citing influences of 20th century architecture, Wu presented numerous experiments with texture, be it with an enlarged wood grain print in optical shades of grey, or woven raffia organza garments that possessed both a lightness and structure to them. Embroideries comprised of three different types of lace delicately traced out the shapes of leaves on bodices, while short-haired furs added tactility to sleeveless jackets and dress coats.
Finishing touches: The collection’s colour palette was also a strong point. Informed by the photography of John Rawlings, it ranged from ocean greens, black, carob to sandstone, with vibrant hits of berry pink and burnt sienna steering things away from the monochromatic.