Versace S/S 2016

Mood board: For spring, Donatella Versace brought her Versace tribe to the jungle. The collection opened with sassy soldier-like women in terrific clean khaki and olive canvas looks borrowed from the men - but shortened to vamp lengths - and climaxed with a series of bun-hugging sequined dresses that were worn on women with actual curves. Kudos to Donatella for dedicating her collection to ‘all women’ (as the soundtrack announced), and not just the gaunt ones that populate most designers’ runways.

Best in show: Those minimal opening looks in sturdy, plain fabrics were new territory for this glitz-loving designer and marked a fresh, well-tuned adjustment. We also loved the abstract camouflage motifs that Versace boldly worked in shades of bold yellow, grass green, grape and black in both flat prints or 3D embroideries on shorter-than-short shorts, micro miniskirts and matched cropped jackets.

Finishing touches: While every other designer might be advocating flats for every occasion (steamy eveningwear included), Ms Versace won’t budge on the issue. She showed a couple of tractor-soled flatforms, but the majority of her models towered over the runway on heels with enormous platform bases