Mood board: For spring, Donatella Versace brought her Versace tribe to the jungle. The collection opened with sassy soldier-like women in terrific clean khaki and olive canvas looks borrowed from the men - but shortened to vamp lengths - and climaxed with a series of bun-hugging sequined dresses that were worn on women with actual curves. Kudos to Donatella for dedicating her collection to ‘all women’ (as the soundtrack announced), and not just the gaunt ones that populate most designers’ runways.
Best in show: Those minimal opening looks in sturdy, plain fabrics were new territory for this glitz-loving designer and marked a fresh, well-tuned adjustment. We also loved the abstract camouflage motifs that Versace boldly worked in shades of bold yellow, grass green, grape and black in both flat prints or 3D embroideries on shorter-than-short shorts, micro miniskirts and matched cropped jackets.
Finishing touches: While every other designer might be advocating flats for every occasion (steamy eveningwear included), Ms Versace won’t budge on the issue. She showed a couple of tractor-soled flatforms, but the majority of her models towered over the runway on heels with enormous platform bases
INFORMATION
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
In Scotland, a derelict farmer’s cottage turns contemporary homeBlack and Stone is the reimagining of a 1930s farmer’s cottage that celebrates its historic nature and Scotland’s dramatic scenery
-
Yannick Alléno takes over Monsieur Dior: ‘What would Christian Dior do if he were to create a restaurant today?’At 30 Montaigne in Paris, the world’s most Michelin-starred chef reimagines French gastronomy as Christian Dior himself might have dreamt it
-
Oscar Ouyang’s imaginative knitwear makes him a London Fashion Week name to watchThe Guangdong-born designer, who recently graduated from Central Saint Martins, will hold his first runway show at LFW tomorrow. As part of our Uprising column, Wallpaper* gets a preview of the collection
-
With an ode to Italy, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake brings its brand of fashion magic to Florence’s Pitti UomoMarking the start of a new nomadic way of showing for the Japanese label, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake held its S/S 2026 show at Florence’s Villa Medicea della Petraia as part of Pitti Uomo last night (18 June) with a collection inspired by the colours and textures of Italy
-
Milan exhibition celebrates 20 years of Armani Privé: ‘Haute couture is fashion when it becomes art’Hosted at the Tadao Ando-designed Armani/Silos, ‘Giorgio Armani Privé 2005-2025, Twenty Years of Haute Couture’ displays an expansive collection of the Italian designer’s showstopping haute couture creations
-
Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023: Fendi to PradaFrom Prada’s exploration of archetypal menswear garments to JW Anderson’s much-anticipated debut in the city, the best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023, as it happens
-
Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022: Prada to Bottega VenetaIn this extended report, Scarlett Conlon reports live from the Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as they take place on the runway
-
Now you can admire every Versace catwalk look from your bookshelfDive into this Versace-celebrating book, which amasses more than 40 years of fashion shows and 1,200 catwalk images
-
Sweats and sequins: the duality of dressing at Milan Fashion Week S/S 2021Brands from Dolce & Gabbana to Valentino considered post pandemic dressing, with escapist and pragmatic silhouettes presented with aplomb
-
The filmic vision of Paris’ virtual men’s fashion weekTake an in-depth look at the trends of Paris' fashion week for Spring/Summer 2021, where brands turned to the moving image to express their collections virtually
-
A decade of fashion show history in picturesBritish photographer Jason Lloyd Evans shares his favourite backstage images, from the runway shows of Dolce & Gabbana, Chanel, Armani, Proenza Schouler, Versace and more
