Roland Mouret's spring collection was an ode to the woman he's looking forward to dressing, come November, when his first New York boutique opens at 952 Madison Avenue. With this intimate approach in mind, rather than designing dresses that obviously belonged to the Roland Mouret tribe, this season felt more like the Englishman was crafting pieces for the individual. Each exit seemed to have its own personality as he updated his famed Galaxy dress proportions with criss-crossed panels of honeycomb silk, or softer, colour-blocked day-to-night dresses that were panelled with a patchwork of black, white, mauve, lemon and tangerine hues. Best in show were his retro-flavoured versions with pointed collars that were cut-away leaving bare shoulders sensually protruding. Texture played Mouret's alternative mistress for spring, which saw him working with a lightweight boucle as well as hibiscus appliqués that were laser-cut into cotton mesh. Some of these monochrome pieces were then edged with a raw fringe at the hem or neckline, further serving to relax his dominant hourglass silhouette. Wearable and interesting, these were dresses to get noticed in, without overpowering the wearer, a feat in itself that will no doubt be appreciated by Mouret's Manhattan devotees as much as the rest of the world.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
