Rick Owens S/S 2015
In the bright world of flash-bulb fashion, Rick Owens is the king of darkness. So it was shocking (and relieving) to see his fashion show set not in the dark underbelly of a remote sports arena, but inside the pastel-frescoed walls of Paris' Place du Trocadéro. Just as pure light shone through the huge windows of his venue, so too did Owens draw back the blinds on his usually pitch-black, moody clothing. The effect was translucent and intriguing. Owens worked almost exclusively in transparent tulle, which he layered, ironed, and crimped into complex honeycomb or patchwork configurations. The models' bodies got in on the act; many of which were painted ivory, like an aboriginal tribe. That too, felt very much on point. While most designers might treat a prim material like tulle in a sweet, romantic way, Owens twisted it into something primitive. As for his Grecian sandals? They featured enormous jaw soles that clonked along the floor as if carved from granite with the models walking on top of them like a big band of couture cavewomen.
In the bright world of flash-bulb fashion, Rick Owens is the king of darkness. So it was shocking (and relieving) to see his fashion show set not in the dark underbelly of a remote sports arena, but inside the pastel-frescoed walls of Paris' Place du Trocadéro. Just as pure light shone through the huge windows of his venue, so too did Owens draw back the blinds on his usually pitch-black, moody clothing. The effect was translucent and intriguing. Owens worked almost exclusively in transparent tulle, which he layered, ironed, and crimped into complex honeycomb or patchwork configurations. The models' bodies got in on the act; many of which were painted ivory, like an aboriginal tribe. That too, felt very much on point. While most designers might treat a prim material like tulle in a sweet, romantic way, Owens twisted it into something primitive. As for his Grecian sandals? They featured enormous jaw soles that clonked along the floor as if carved from granite with the models walking on top of them like a big band of couture cavewomen.
In the bright world of flash-bulb fashion, Rick Owens is the king of darkness. So it was shocking (and relieving) to see his fashion show set not in the dark underbelly of a remote sports arena, but inside the pastel-frescoed walls of Paris' Place du Trocadéro. Just as pure light shone through the huge windows of his venue, so too did Owens draw back the blinds on his usually pitch-black, moody clothing. The effect was translucent and intriguing. Owens worked almost exclusively in transparent tulle, which he layered, ironed, and crimped into complex honeycomb or patchwork configurations. The models' bodies got in on the act; many of which were painted ivory, like an aboriginal tribe. That too, felt very much on point. While most designers might treat a prim material like tulle in a sweet, romantic way, Owens twisted it into something primitive. As for his Grecian sandals? They featured enormous jaw soles that clonked along the floor as if carved from granite with the models walking on top of them like a big band of couture cavewomen.
In the bright world of flash-bulb fashion, Rick Owens is the king of darkness. So it was shocking (and relieving) to see his fashion show set not in the dark underbelly of a remote sports arena, but inside the pastel-frescoed walls of Paris' Place du Trocadéro. Just as pure light shone through the huge windows of his venue, so too did Owens draw back the blinds on his usually pitch-black, moody clothing. The effect was translucent and intriguing. Owens worked almost exclusively in transparent tulle, which he layered, ironed, and crimped into complex honeycomb or patchwork configurations. The models' bodies got in on the act; many of which were painted ivory, like an aboriginal tribe. That too, felt very much on point. While most designers might treat a prim material like tulle in a sweet, romantic way, Owens twisted it into something primitive. As for his Grecian sandals? They featured enormous jaw soles that clonked along the floor as if carved from granite with the models walking on top of them like a big band of couture cavewomen.
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
JJ Martin
-
How Ichio Matsuzawa designed the almost-invisible bar defining Art Week Tokyo 2025During the art fair’s latest instalment, Wallpaper* met the Japanese architect to explore architecture as sensation, not structure
-
The story behind rebellious New York fashion label-cum-art collective, Women’s History MuseumMattie Barringer and Amanda McGowan’s multidisciplinary label has been challenging fashion’s status quo for the past decade. As they open a new exhibition at Amant, Brooklyn, the pair sit down with Wallpaper* to discuss their provocative approach
-
Mark+Fold Turns 10 with first Shoreditch pop-upBritish stationery brand Mark+Fold celebrates ten years in business with a Brick Lane pop-up featuring new products, small-batch editions and conversations with creatives