A barely discernible mist, like a filmy cloud, literally hung over the air at the Haider Ackermann show. Ackermann's clothes possessed a similar kind of ethereal, ghost-like quality. His silk suiting, featuring dramatically plunging V-necks and fluid pants in powder pink or dove grey, grazed lightly over the body, tracing its counters and caressing the skin. As usual with this sensitive designer, everything in this show was carefully considered and masterfully executed. The tulle covered bomber jackets with curly edges and intricate ruching, for example, were superb. So too were the layered peplums that sat under jackets or blouses like the delicate petals of a flower. Ackermann's oeuvre is undeniably beautiful, but, after several years, also becoming a tad one-note. We'd love to see him break out of his comfort box and charter new fashion territory. His technical, creative and imaginative capabilities are all there, ripe for the picking.
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JJ Martin
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