It was immediately apparent that this design duo, like many of their contemporaries, had spent time at London's Tate Modern over the summer break, given the plethora of Matisse leaf cut-out motifs and geometric planes of colour denoting the work of Russian abstract artist Kazimir Malevich in their spring symphony. In spite of founding the digital print revolution with their fellow London peers, the Peter Pilotto boys had similarly switched up their focus to elaborate embroideries made from guipure lace and highly technical macramé for the season. Within the show's Queen Elizabeth II Conference Centre, lolly-like fractured Perspex shapes crowned Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos' heavily encrusted mini dresses, while interlocking chains added boarders to their black backed variations. Best in show were the pair's swirling, long-sleeved knitted sheaths, panelled with hyper hues and all matter of asymmetric draping techniques that dazzlingly (that word again) camouflaged perfectly with the venue's colour-blocked windowpanes.
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Jack Moss is the Fashion & Beauty Features Director at Wallpaper*, having joined the team in 2022 as Fashion Features Editor. Previously the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 Magazine, he has also contributed to numerous international publications and featured in ‘Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers’, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.
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