1205 S/S 2015

'People have always wanted to talk to me about androgyny,' said 1205 designer Paula Gerbase backstage, clearly in the mood to start a new conversation with her spring show. 'I would like to do a show without that being discussed,' explaining her decision to nix the usual menswear contingency from her runway presentation. Right from the start a new freedom was snipped into the former Savile Row designer's billowing, cotton voile smock dresses. A softening that soon followed in the generous drape of her wide-legged cropped pants, and kimono jackets - secured with a simple bronze bar. Exchanging androgyny for utilitarian influences, rectangular tabards were cloaked over capri-length pants, fastened by buttons running up each leg. Perhaps the most interesting element of the show was the development of these tunic shapes as Gerbase later layered different linear fabrications - be it a checked wool or pleated polyester - at stepped lengths, creating silhouettes of tiered, asymmetric, material-blocked dresses. Here, you could also see her link to the work of American abstract painter Agnes Martin, and more specifically the grid configurations of her hand-drawn 'On a Clear Day' series, which led Gerbase to title this collection 'The Matter of Mathematics'.
'People have always wanted to talk to me about androgyny,' said 1205 designer Paula Gerbase backstage, clearly in the mood to start a new conversation with her spring show. 'I would like to do a show without that being discussed,' explaining her decision to nix the usual menswear contingency from her runway presentation. Right from the start a new freedom was snipped into the former Savile Row designer's billowing, cotton voile smock dresses. A softening that soon followed in the generous drape of her wide-legged cropped pants, and kimono jackets - secured with a simple bronze bar. Exchanging androgyny for utilitarian influences, rectangular tabards were cloaked over capri-length pants, fastened by buttons running up each leg. Perhaps the most interesting element of the show was the development of these tunic shapes as Gerbase later layered different linear fabrications - be it a checked wool or pleated polyester - at stepped lengths, creating silhouettes of tiered, asymmetric, material-blocked dresses. Here, you could also see her link to the work of American abstract painter Agnes Martin, and more specifically the grid configurations of her hand-drawn 'On a Clear Day' series, which led Gerbase to title this collection 'The Matter of Mathematics'.
'People have always wanted to talk to me about androgyny,' said 1205 designer Paula Gerbase backstage, clearly in the mood to start a new conversation with her spring show. 'I would like to do a show without that being discussed,' explaining her decision to nix the usual menswear contingency from her runway presentation. Right from the start a new freedom was snipped into the former Savile Row designer's billowing, cotton voile smock dresses. A softening that soon followed in the generous drape of her wide-legged cropped pants, and kimono jackets - secured with a simple bronze bar. Exchanging androgyny for utilitarian influences, rectangular tabards were cloaked over capri-length pants, fastened by buttons running up each leg. Perhaps the most interesting element of the show was the development of these tunic shapes as Gerbase later layered different linear fabrications - be it a checked wool or pleated polyester - at stepped lengths, creating silhouettes of tiered, asymmetric, material-blocked dresses. Here, you could also see her link to the work of American abstract painter Agnes Martin, and more specifically the grid configurations of her hand-drawn 'On a Clear Day' series, which led Gerbase to title this collection 'The Matter of Mathematics'.
'People have always wanted to talk to me about androgyny,' said 1205 designer Paula Gerbase backstage, clearly in the mood to start a new conversation with her spring show. 'I would like to do a show without that being discussed,' explaining her decision to nix the usual menswear contingency from her runway presentation. Right from the start a new freedom was snipped into the former Savile Row designer's billowing, cotton voile smock dresses. A softening that soon followed in the generous drape of her wide-legged cropped pants, and kimono jackets - secured with a simple bronze bar. Exchanging androgyny for utilitarian influences, rectangular tabards were cloaked over capri-length pants, fastened by buttons running up each leg. Perhaps the most interesting element of the show was the development of these tunic shapes as Gerbase later layered different linear fabrications - be it a checked wool or pleated polyester - at stepped lengths, creating silhouettes of tiered, asymmetric, material-blocked dresses. Here, you could also see her link to the work of American abstract painter Agnes Martin, and more specifically the grid configurations of her hand-drawn 'On a Clear Day' series, which led Gerbase to title this collection 'The Matter of Mathematics'.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
-
Byredo holiday collection draws inspiration from Wim Wenders and Georgia O’Keefe
Byredo’s creative image director Lucia Pica speaks to Wallpaper* in an exclusive interview, revealing her off-kilter design process
By Mary Cleary Published
-
2024 Pantone Color of the Year is looking deliciously peachy
Peach Fuzz is Pantone Color of the Year – time to refeather your nest in a comforting hue?
By Tianna Williams Published
-
Design Miami 2023 explores how design responds to the world around us
Design Miami 2023 (until 10 December), curated by Anna Carnick, is guided by the theme of ‘Where We Stand’
By Rosa Bertoli Published
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019
By Dal Chodha Published
-
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine Rose
Though slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft Week
During London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimono
For the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
By Grace Cook Last updated
-
Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Christopher Kane A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Burberry A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated