'People have always wanted to talk to me about androgyny,' said 1205 designer Paula Gerbase backstage, clearly in the mood to start a new conversation with her spring show. 'I would like to do a show without that being discussed,' explaining her decision to nix the usual menswear contingency from her runway presentation. Right from the start a new freedom was snipped into the former Savile Row designer's billowing, cotton voile smock dresses. A softening that soon followed in the generous drape of her wide-legged cropped pants, and kimono jackets - secured with a simple bronze bar. Exchanging androgyny for utilitarian influences, rectangular tabards were cloaked over capri-length pants, fastened by buttons running up each leg. Perhaps the most interesting element of the show was the development of these tunic shapes as Gerbase later layered different linear fabrications - be it a checked wool or pleated polyester - at stepped lengths, creating silhouettes of tiered, asymmetric, material-blocked dresses. Here, you could also see her link to the work of American abstract painter Agnes Martin, and more specifically the grid configurations of her hand-drawn 'On a Clear Day' series, which led Gerbase to title this collection 'The Matter of Mathematics'.
'People have always wanted to talk to me about androgyny,' said 1205 designer Paula Gerbase backstage, clearly in the mood to start a new conversation with her spring show. 'I would like to do a show without that being discussed,' explaining her decision to nix the usual menswear contingency from her runway presentation. Right from the start a new freedom was snipped into the former Savile Row designer's billowing, cotton voile smock dresses. A softening that soon followed in the generous drape of her wide-legged cropped pants, and kimono jackets - secured with a simple bronze bar. Exchanging androgyny for utilitarian influences, rectangular tabards were cloaked over capri-length pants, fastened by buttons running up each leg. Perhaps the most interesting element of the show was the development of these tunic shapes as Gerbase later layered different linear fabrications - be it a checked wool or pleated polyester - at stepped lengths, creating silhouettes of tiered, asymmetric, material-blocked dresses. Here, you could also see her link to the work of American abstract painter Agnes Martin, and more specifically the grid configurations of her hand-drawn 'On a Clear Day' series, which led Gerbase to title this collection 'The Matter of Mathematics'.
'People have always wanted to talk to me about androgyny,' said 1205 designer Paula Gerbase backstage, clearly in the mood to start a new conversation with her spring show. 'I would like to do a show without that being discussed,' explaining her decision to nix the usual menswear contingency from her runway presentation. Right from the start a new freedom was snipped into the former Savile Row designer's billowing, cotton voile smock dresses. A softening that soon followed in the generous drape of her wide-legged cropped pants, and kimono jackets - secured with a simple bronze bar. Exchanging androgyny for utilitarian influences, rectangular tabards were cloaked over capri-length pants, fastened by buttons running up each leg. Perhaps the most interesting element of the show was the development of these tunic shapes as Gerbase later layered different linear fabrications - be it a checked wool or pleated polyester - at stepped lengths, creating silhouettes of tiered, asymmetric, material-blocked dresses. Here, you could also see her link to the work of American abstract painter Agnes Martin, and more specifically the grid configurations of her hand-drawn 'On a Clear Day' series, which led Gerbase to title this collection 'The Matter of Mathematics'.
'People have always wanted to talk to me about androgyny,' said 1205 designer Paula Gerbase backstage, clearly in the mood to start a new conversation with her spring show. 'I would like to do a show without that being discussed,' explaining her decision to nix the usual menswear contingency from her runway presentation. Right from the start a new freedom was snipped into the former Savile Row designer's billowing, cotton voile smock dresses. A softening that soon followed in the generous drape of her wide-legged cropped pants, and kimono jackets - secured with a simple bronze bar. Exchanging androgyny for utilitarian influences, rectangular tabards were cloaked over capri-length pants, fastened by buttons running up each leg. Perhaps the most interesting element of the show was the development of these tunic shapes as Gerbase later layered different linear fabrications - be it a checked wool or pleated polyester - at stepped lengths, creating silhouettes of tiered, asymmetric, material-blocked dresses. Here, you could also see her link to the work of American abstract painter Agnes Martin, and more specifically the grid configurations of her hand-drawn 'On a Clear Day' series, which led Gerbase to title this collection 'The Matter of Mathematics'.
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Curvilinear futurism meets subtropical beaches at Not A Hotel’s ZHA-designed Okinawa retreatZaha Hadid Architects has revealed the design for the first property in Not A Hotel’s futuristic new Vertex collection, coming soon to southern Japan
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Gorden Wagener leaves the helm of Mercedes-Benz design after 28 years with the companyThe German designer is stepping down from the role of chief design officer at Mercedes-Benz. We look back at his influence and impact on the world of automotive and luxury design
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These Christmas cards sent by 20th-century architects tell their own storiesHandcrafted holiday greetings reveal the personal side of architecture and design legends such as Charles and Ray Eames, Frank Lloyd Wright and Ludwig Mies van der Rohe
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‘Architect of glamour’ Antony Price makes a high-voltage return to the runway with 16ArlingtonFeaturing a runway debut from Lily Allen, the show saw legendary designer Antony Price – best known for outfitting Roxy Music in the 1980s – unite with 16Arlington’s Marco Capaldo on the sensual after-dark collection
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‘Dirty Looks’ at the Barbican explores how fashion designers have found beauty in dirt and decayFrom garments buried in River Thames mud to those torn, creased and stained, ‘Dirty Looks’ is a testament to how ‘creativity and new artistic practices can come out of decay’, its curators tell Dal Chodha
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Tyler Mitchell’s London show explores the figure of the Black Dandy, ‘imagining what else masculinity could look like’Originally part of a visual essay to accompany the Met’s ‘Superfine’ 2025 Costume Institute exhibition, ‘Portrait of the Modern Dandy’ goes on display at Gagosian Burlington Arcade in London this week
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Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
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Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
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Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
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Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
