'People have always wanted to talk to me about androgyny,' said 1205 designer Paula Gerbase backstage, clearly in the mood to start a new conversation with her spring show. 'I would like to do a show without that being discussed,' explaining her decision to nix the usual menswear contingency from her runway presentation. Right from the start a new freedom was snipped into the former Savile Row designer's billowing, cotton voile smock dresses. A softening that soon followed in the generous drape of her wide-legged cropped pants, and kimono jackets - secured with a simple bronze bar. Exchanging androgyny for utilitarian influences, rectangular tabards were cloaked over capri-length pants, fastened by buttons running up each leg. Perhaps the most interesting element of the show was the development of these tunic shapes as Gerbase later layered different linear fabrications - be it a checked wool or pleated polyester - at stepped lengths, creating silhouettes of tiered, asymmetric, material-blocked dresses. Here, you could also see her link to the work of American abstract painter Agnes Martin, and more specifically the grid configurations of her hand-drawn 'On a Clear Day' series, which led Gerbase to title this collection 'The Matter of Mathematics'.
'People have always wanted to talk to me about androgyny,' said 1205 designer Paula Gerbase backstage, clearly in the mood to start a new conversation with her spring show. 'I would like to do a show without that being discussed,' explaining her decision to nix the usual menswear contingency from her runway presentation. Right from the start a new freedom was snipped into the former Savile Row designer's billowing, cotton voile smock dresses. A softening that soon followed in the generous drape of her wide-legged cropped pants, and kimono jackets - secured with a simple bronze bar. Exchanging androgyny for utilitarian influences, rectangular tabards were cloaked over capri-length pants, fastened by buttons running up each leg. Perhaps the most interesting element of the show was the development of these tunic shapes as Gerbase later layered different linear fabrications - be it a checked wool or pleated polyester - at stepped lengths, creating silhouettes of tiered, asymmetric, material-blocked dresses. Here, you could also see her link to the work of American abstract painter Agnes Martin, and more specifically the grid configurations of her hand-drawn 'On a Clear Day' series, which led Gerbase to title this collection 'The Matter of Mathematics'.
'People have always wanted to talk to me about androgyny,' said 1205 designer Paula Gerbase backstage, clearly in the mood to start a new conversation with her spring show. 'I would like to do a show without that being discussed,' explaining her decision to nix the usual menswear contingency from her runway presentation. Right from the start a new freedom was snipped into the former Savile Row designer's billowing, cotton voile smock dresses. A softening that soon followed in the generous drape of her wide-legged cropped pants, and kimono jackets - secured with a simple bronze bar. Exchanging androgyny for utilitarian influences, rectangular tabards were cloaked over capri-length pants, fastened by buttons running up each leg. Perhaps the most interesting element of the show was the development of these tunic shapes as Gerbase later layered different linear fabrications - be it a checked wool or pleated polyester - at stepped lengths, creating silhouettes of tiered, asymmetric, material-blocked dresses. Here, you could also see her link to the work of American abstract painter Agnes Martin, and more specifically the grid configurations of her hand-drawn 'On a Clear Day' series, which led Gerbase to title this collection 'The Matter of Mathematics'.
'People have always wanted to talk to me about androgyny,' said 1205 designer Paula Gerbase backstage, clearly in the mood to start a new conversation with her spring show. 'I would like to do a show without that being discussed,' explaining her decision to nix the usual menswear contingency from her runway presentation. Right from the start a new freedom was snipped into the former Savile Row designer's billowing, cotton voile smock dresses. A softening that soon followed in the generous drape of her wide-legged cropped pants, and kimono jackets - secured with a simple bronze bar. Exchanging androgyny for utilitarian influences, rectangular tabards were cloaked over capri-length pants, fastened by buttons running up each leg. Perhaps the most interesting element of the show was the development of these tunic shapes as Gerbase later layered different linear fabrications - be it a checked wool or pleated polyester - at stepped lengths, creating silhouettes of tiered, asymmetric, material-blocked dresses. Here, you could also see her link to the work of American abstract painter Agnes Martin, and more specifically the grid configurations of her hand-drawn 'On a Clear Day' series, which led Gerbase to title this collection 'The Matter of Mathematics'.
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Futuristic-feeling Southwark Tube Station has been granted Grade II-listed statusCelebrated as an iconic piece of late 20th-century design, the station has been added to England’s National Heritage List
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David Shrigley is quite literally asking for money for old rope (£1 million, to be precise)The Turner Prize-nominated artist has filled a London gallery with ten tonnes of discarded rope, priced at £1 million, slyly questioning the arbitrariness of artistic value
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The new Bentley Supersports pares back the luxury to create a screaming two-seaterBentley redefines its iconic grand tourer with a lightweight performance variant that strips out the trim and the tech and adds in refined dynamics and more visual drama than ever before
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‘Dirty Looks’ at the Barbican explores how fashion designers have found beauty in dirt and decayFrom garments buried in River Thames mud to those torn, creased and stained, ‘Dirty Looks’ is a testament to how ‘creativity and new artistic practices can come out of decay’, its curators tell Dal Chodha
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Tyler Mitchell’s London show explores the figure of the Black Dandy, ‘imagining what else masculinity could look like’Originally part of a visual essay to accompany the Met’s ‘Superfine’ 2025 Costume Institute exhibition, ‘Portrait of the Modern Dandy’ goes on display at Gagosian Burlington Arcade in London this week
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Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
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Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
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Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
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Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
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Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
