Victoria Beckham A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's

Mood board: Rebellion has long been a buzzword of London Fashion Week — be it burgeoning avant-garde brands or Extinction Rebellion protesting against fashion’s polluting output for the second time this season outside the BFC Show Space. A gentler insurgence was on the mind of Victoria Beckham — who has in recent seasons bought a tension to her designs, which navigate fluidity and sharper tailoring in a spectrum of vibrant tones. ‘I wanted to be subversive yet sophisticated’, her show notes summarised, of a collection which opened with a bold flurry of all black looks, from cut out crepe dresses to boxy coats, paired with slick knee high boots. Feminine pleated culottes and gently flaring trouser suits were paired with school girl shirts and v-necks in cerulean and sunshine yellow, voluminous op art print dresses were densely ruched and featured flowing sleeves and bralette detail slip dresses were imagined in otter print foulard silk. Subtle subversion came in blouses imagined in masculine Lumberjack check and ribbed knits with geometric cutouts.

Finishing touches: A leather belt with two clasps formed from curling fingers bought a new dialogue to the classic bourgeois horse bit belt. Beckham has long championed a knee high boot in a spectrum of leathers, and for A/W 2020 she swapped last season’s peep-toe stiletto heel for a more vertiginous 60s platform.

Best in show: The was a timeless simplicity behind the monochrome eveningwear pieces that Beckham debuted at the show’s start. Particularly strong was a black knee skimming dress with a plunging décolletage and bell sleeves. Subversion and sophistication ticked off in one silhouette.