Mood board: Rebellion has long been a buzzword of London Fashion Week — be it burgeoning avant-garde brands or Extinction Rebellion protesting against fashion’s polluting output for the second time this season outside the BFC Show Space. A gentler insurgence was on the mind of Victoria Beckham — who has in recent seasons bought a tension to her designs, which navigate fluidity and sharper tailoring in a spectrum of vibrant tones. ‘I wanted to be subversive yet sophisticated’, her show notes summarised, of a collection which opened with a bold flurry of all black looks, from cut out crepe dresses to boxy coats, paired with slick knee high boots. Feminine pleated culottes and gently flaring trouser suits were paired with school girl shirts and v-necks in cerulean and sunshine yellow, voluminous op art print dresses were densely ruched and featured flowing sleeves and bralette detail slip dresses were imagined in otter print foulard silk. Subtle subversion came in blouses imagined in masculine Lumberjack check and ribbed knits with geometric cutouts.
Finishing touches: A leather belt with two clasps formed from curling fingers bought a new dialogue to the classic bourgeois horse bit belt. Beckham has long championed a knee high boot in a spectrum of leathers, and for A/W 2020 she swapped last season’s peep-toe stiletto heel for a more vertiginous 60s platform.
Best in show: The was a timeless simplicity behind the monochrome eveningwear pieces that Beckham debuted at the show’s start. Particularly strong was a black knee skimming dress with a plunging décolletage and bell sleeves. Subversion and sophistication ticked off in one silhouette.
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Modernism for sale: a Norman Jaffe-designed icon on Shelter Island hits the marketThe Osofsky House epitomised the glamour of high-end 70s modernism on Long Island. Now updated and refurbished, it’s back on the market for the first time in over two decades
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Discover Locus and its ‘eco-localism' - an alternative way of thinking about architectureLocus, an architecture firm in Mexico City, has a portfolio of projects which share an attitude rather than an obvious visual language
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MoMA celebrates African portraiture in a far-reaching exhibitionIn 'Ideas of Africa: Portraiture and Political Imagination' at MoMA, New York, studies African creativity in photography in front of and behind the camera
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‘Architect of glamour’ Antony Price makes a high-voltage return to the runway with 16ArlingtonFeaturing a runway debut from Lily Allen, the show saw legendary designer Antony Price – best known for outfitting Roxy Music in the 1980s – unite with 16Arlington’s Marco Capaldo on the sensual after-dark collection
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‘Dirty Looks’ at the Barbican explores how fashion designers have found beauty in dirt and decayFrom garments buried in River Thames mud to those torn, creased and stained, ‘Dirty Looks’ is a testament to how ‘creativity and new artistic practices can come out of decay’, its curators tell Dal Chodha
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Tyler Mitchell’s London show explores the figure of the Black Dandy, ‘imagining what else masculinity could look like’Originally part of a visual essay to accompany the Met’s ‘Superfine’ 2025 Costume Institute exhibition, ‘Portrait of the Modern Dandy’ goes on display at Gagosian Burlington Arcade in London this week
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Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
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Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
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Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
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Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
