Mood board: Regimental frock coats, 1940s evening dresses in slippery silks, Glam Rock sequin trousers… if last season Julien Dossena took his insouciant Paco Rabanne girl to the coin-shimmering world of the souk, for A/W 2019 she was well and truly travelling through time. Dossena was preoccupied with decades spanning ‘pageantry, ceremony and performance’, featuring the chainmail dresses idiosyncratic of the brand (seen for autumn with a 1930s v-neck cut and shimmering with crystals), alongside pieces from a host of other eras. The look was glamorous and gilded, poised between the pretty – cherry print twinsets, Mary Jane shoes and art deco gowns, and the daring – second skin sequins, chain mail pencil skirts and cheeky polka dot tights.
Scene setting: If last season’s light-bulb lined show set resembled a twinkling ball room, A/W 2019’s looked a little more hotel lobby. Kitsch leaf-print carpet lined the runway and huge graphic chandeliers hung above the catwalk. Considering the decades on display, this was a reception lobby with a host of time-defying guests.
Best in show: A skinny Vichy check suit had androgynous New Wave flair. Those demure art deco frocks will make for fantastic partywear for the nonchalant Paco Rabanne girl. §
