Mood board: Regimental frock coats, 1940s evening dresses in slippery silks, Glam Rock sequin trousers… if last season Julien Dossena took his insouciant Paco Rabanne girl to the coin-shimmering world of the souk, for A/W 2019 she was well and truly travelling through time. Dossena was preoccupied with decades spanning ‘pageantry, ceremony and performance’, featuring the chainmail dresses idiosyncratic of the brand (seen for autumn with a 1930s v-neck cut and shimmering with crystals), alongside pieces from a host of other eras. The look was glamorous and gilded, poised between the pretty – cherry print twinsets, Mary Jane shoes and art deco gowns, and the daring – second skin sequins, chain mail pencil skirts and cheeky polka dot tights.
Scene setting: If last season’s light-bulb lined show set resembled a twinkling ball room, A/W 2019’s looked a little more hotel lobby. Kitsch leaf-print carpet lined the runway and huge graphic chandeliers hung above the catwalk. Considering the decades on display, this was a reception lobby with a host of time-defying guests.
Best in show: A skinny Vichy check suit had androgynous New Wave flair. Those demure art deco frocks will make for fantastic partywear for the nonchalant Paco Rabanne girl.
Paco Rabanne A/W 2019.
Paco Rabanne A/W 2019.
Paco Rabanne A/W 2019.
Paco Rabanne A/W 2019.
-
In Shanghai, Hermès conjures a ‘cosmopolitan explorer’ for its one-off show on the Huangpu RiverNadège Vanhée, artistic director of Hermès’ womenswear collections, presented ‘The Second Chapter’ of her A/W 2025 collection earlier this evening (13 June 2025) against the futuristic skyline of Shanghai
-
Out of office: the Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the weekIt was a jam-packed week for the Wallpaper* staff, entailing furniture, tech and music launches and lots of good food – from afternoon tea to omakase
-
Peugeot brings back a classic performance badge for the electric era: meet the E-208 GTiPeugeot has unveiled the new E-208 GTi, a performance EV designed to hark back to a golden age of compact sports cars
-
Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
-
‘Don’t forget to get the bread!’ Serge Lutens writes an ode to a singular perfumePublished exclusively by Wallpaper*, Serge Lutens writes an ode to Jeux de Peau, a singular perfume of his creation inspired by a childhood memory of baking bread
-
What did Christian Dior’s favourite ‘invisible’ flower smell like?Dior’s Francis Kurkdijan recreates the scent of a rare lily of the valley species in Le Muguet, the first olfactory chapter of new perfume collection Les Récoltes Majeures
-
Inside Camperlab’s Harry Nuriev-designed Paris store, a dramatic exercise in contrastThe Crosby Studios founder tells Wallpaper* the story behind his new store design for Mallorcan shoe brand Camperlab, which centres on an interplay between ‘crushed concrete’ and gleaming industrial design
-
How an 18th-century mansion became a Loewe wonderland for Paris Fashion WeekDrawing on the act of scrapbooking, Jonathan Anderson took over the Hôtel de Maisons with a self-reflective A/W 2025 presentation, shown alongside colourful artworks from the brand’s collection
-
This Rabanne handbag comes with its own rain jacketThe novel handbag arrives as part of Julien Dossena’s S/S 2025 collection for Rabanne, which featured the house’s chainmail handbags in opulent new materials
-
Inside Sarah Burton’s debut show for Givenchy: ‘To go forward, you have to go back to the beginning’This morning in Paris, the former Alexander McQueen designer unveiled her anticipated debut as creative director of Givenchy – a musing on contemporary womanhood sparked by the discovery of lost Hubert de Givenchy pattern pieces
-
‘Azzedine Alaïa - Thierry Mugler’: new Paris exhibition puts two fashion greats in conversation‘Azzedine Alaïa - Thierry Mugler’ at Fondation Azzedine Alaïa explores the affinity and friendship between two designers who redefined 1980s and 1990s fashion. Curator Olivier Saillard tells Wallpaper* about the unique show
