Rodarte A/W 2016

Scene setting: Rather than change things up with each passing season, Rodarte has maintained a recurring theme of using fluorescent tubes in each of its runway set designs. This season, the Mulleavy sisters placed the nondescript tubes amidst piles of rubble, crimson red blossoms and steel panels, much like an electric garden, that still allowing a fragile, glowing beauty to shine through.

Mood board: Spidery knits, intricately woven lace and plenty of chiffon ruffles brought a decorative, cleverly thought-out artistry to Rodarte's signature brand of quirky femininity. Inspired by old San Francisco and vintage Fillmore posters, the collection used a bevy of graphic embellishments, including leather ruffles that wove around skirts and sculptural chandelier sleeves, formed with lace and tulle. The result harked back to an architectural sensibility while still remaining ethereally pretty.

Best in show: Instead of the homespun eccentricity that has dominated seasons past, Rodarte's autumn collection was exquisitely rendered with fine embroidery and finishes. This couldn't be more true than in the gilded flower headdresses and ear pieces (which included real orchids mixed in), antique-style bejewelled earrings, cuffs and necklaces and lambskin buckle belts which were worn as chokers, that left each ensemble smouldering with a dark, withering sense of romance.

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