Narciso Rodriguez A/W 2016

Three models, one wearing a white coat, one in a navy and white coat and one in a yellow dress

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Mood board: It's all about the nuances at Narciso Rodriguez. The die-hard minimalist experimented with plisse wool textures and asymmetric shapes this season, showing plenty of bias cut dresses that grazed the body while swarthy wrap coats enveloped it. As reduced as shapes were, their simplicity was amplified by a variety of interesting materials, such as crushed paper silk and a laminated matelasse that brought a subtle new dimension to the garments.

Finishing touches: The architectural austerity of the collection was juxtaposed by the choice of accessories. Slouchy, dual-tone bags that models toted under their arms were softly structured, while oversized silver and onyx earrings by Ana Khouri brought a graphic edge to the table.

Best in show: Rodriguez has always been known to for his love of femininity, but this season, he seemed to embrace more androgynous shapes such as a long, hooded, almost windbreaker-like coat (elevated in shiny, textured matelasse, of course), fluid, but broad shouldered wool jackets and a variety of trouser shapes that were perfect options for eveningwear.

Image one - female model in a white and dark red dress. Image two - two models in white dresses with foil panels

Image one - two female models, one in a brown dress and the other in yellow. Image two - two female models, one in a black dress and the other in white

Image one - two models, one in a white dress and one in a brown dress with bag. Image two - one model in a brown dress and one in a black coat

Image one - a female model in a black coat. Image two - two female models, one in a black dress and the other in a black coat

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Pei-Ru Keh is a former US Editor at Wallpaper*. Born and raised in Singapore, she has been a New Yorker since 2013. Pei-Ru held various titles at Wallpaper* between 2007 and 2023. She reports on design, tech, art, architecture, fashion, beauty and lifestyle happenings in the United States, both in print and digitally. Pei-Ru took a key role in championing diversity and representation within Wallpaper's content pillars, actively seeking out stories that reflect a wide range of perspectives. She lives in Brooklyn with her husband and two children, and is currently learning how to drive.