For Winter though, the designer loosened the shackles on his highly constructed clothing for the very first time. Enveloped in a newfound cosy comfort, a flood of gorgeous clothing spilled forth this season, from matching pant and top coat sets in heather grey flannel wool to a new take on his signature leather jacket that featured python and wool inserts. Ackermann mined the world of sport to bring a new louche attitude to the clothes: sweatshirts came trimmed in fur, tweed jackets sprouted fox hair hoods, while a slouchy grey ribbed trouser was the best track pant we've seen this season. Of course, none of these clothes will ever be destined for a loafer's wardrobe and in any case, Ackermann's prices exclude a large portion of the couch potato population. But it was wonderful to see how his quiet exactitude - exemplified most in a precision-cut, cape-backed funnel neck jersey gown - could yield such roaring results. This collection was, in a word, perfect.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
