Edun A/W 2014

One of the hottest corners of New York fashion week was subtly carved out on a small diamond shaped runway in Chelsea, where Danielle Sherman turned out a brilliantly executed second collection for Edun. Founded by Ali Hewson and her partner Bono in 2005, this under the radar fashion brand was born with a humanitarian bent: specifically to promote and activate textile and clothing production in Africa. Though there were touches of these humble origins in the wooden disc necklaces left on the seats for front row guests, as well as in the runway's recycled Kenyan disc belts, the collection was air-lifted out of any eco-friendly box. Working with tufted, faux fur in boxy collage formations on sweat shirts and bomber jackets, or in fluffy alpaca on oversized coats, Sherman spun a home-cooked, crafty look to the clothes, but she cut them in speedy, sporty silhouettes that were laced with the kind of pure energy endemic to New York City. Tunic tops and tank tops, staples of the sport wardrobe, were crafted from nubby knits and stretched out and cut with massive side slits, while Adidas tennis shoes came panelled in alpaca. First in a grey play, then camel, then cream, then pure black, the line-up played like a slowly building song. It rang beautifully and powerfully, engrossing its audience and reminding everyone of just how relevant this town's newer players can be.