Francisco Costa could not have known in advance that a bitter storm would've blown snow horizontally across the city for most of the morning before his Calvin Klein Collection fashion show. But his collection seemed preternaturally attuned to New York's harsh weather patterns. First off, the rubber soled lace-up snow boots - with silhouettes that were vaguely reminiscent of grungy Dr Marten's but a whole lot chicer in their shiny pony skin exteriors - would have been a welcome addition to any fashionable woman's wardrobe that slushy morning. But it wasn't just the footwear. The whole collection, covered in nubbly knits and wooly woollens, was a treaty on chicly-cosy, cold weather dressing. Costa is a cutter, though, so even though dresses were crafted entirely from what looked like the output of six grandmother's knitting needles, they remained refined with elongated and streamlined silhouettes. Elegant A-line dresses had graphic pleating across the skirts, while funnel neck tunic tops were patched together from multi-panels of knits. Mohair figured prominently into fuzzy overcoats, V-neck dresses and tube skirts, casually blurring Costa's usual preoccupation with flawless lines. The ragged edges ultimately yielded a slightly frayed, not to mention unexpected, vision of imperfection at Calvin Klein Collection. But in weather like that and times like these, it was perfection.
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
JJ Martin
-
The Bombardier Global 8000 flies faster and higher to make the most of your time in the airA wellness machine with wings: Bombardier’s new Global 8000 isn’t quite a spa in the sky, but the Canadian manufacturer reckons its flagship business jet will give your health a boost
-
A former fisherman’s cottage in Brittany is transformed by a new timber extensionParis-based architects A-platz have woven new elements into the stone fabric of this traditional Breton cottage
-
New York's members-only boom shows no sign of stopping – and it's about to get even more nicheFrom bathing clubs to listening bars, gatekeeping is back in a big way. Here's what's driving the wave of exclusivity
-
The standout shows of New York Fashion Week S/S 2026 – as they happenedHeralding the start of fashion month, the latest edition of NYFW took place in the city this week. Here, in our rolling round-up, Wallpaper* picks the highlights
-
Everything you need to know about the Met Gala 2025 and ‘Superfine: Tailoring Black Style’ exhibitionEverything Wallpaper* knows about the Met Gala 2025 – from the dress code to the exhibition theme and A-list co-chairs
-
Sarah Moon brings painterly fashion and dark fantasy to Fotografiska New YorkOctogenarian French photographer and filmmaker Sarah Moon shows 30 years of work at Fotografiska New York – spanning fashion and fantasy, mystery and the macabre, it’s dark, painterly and compelling
-
‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion' is coming to The MetThe first of a two-part, year-long extravaganza, ‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion’ is organised into 12 sections that seek to define the emotional qualities in American style
-
Saint Laurent celebrates 40 years of Memphis GroupMemphis Group's milestone birthday is celebrated with a series of colourful furniture installations across the French maison's concept boutiques
-
‘A place for the eye to pause’: Ulla Johnson unveils New York HQThe Manhattan-born fashion designer opens a warmly-hued style sanctuary, created in collaboration with architect Rafael de Cárdenas
-
Es Devlin-designed time-travelling exhibition opens at The Met’s Costume Institute‘Our aim is to communicate the phenomenon of time as it is expressed through the female form,’ says Devlin of the exhibition she has designed alongside curator Andrew Bolton
-
Theory A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s