Giorgio Armani dropped several pre-show hints about his Winter collection theme this season, beginning with the shocking lime coloured invitation. The theme continued into his show space where the curtain backdrop held a mellow yellow glow, finishing with a flourish underfoot with the runway illuminated in neon as the model's took their first steps. The fashion subject, obviously, was chartreuse and Armani gripped onto it with tenacious exactitude, allowing only black and shades of grey into the party. This was a wise move on the veteran designer's part, as the punchy brightness was set off beautifully with the neutral tones. Though he worked in all manner of material from slinky silk jerseys to slouchy velvets, the strongest part of the collection was his experimentation with heavier wools and cashmeres. These sturdier fabrications are not normally explored on an Armani runway, but they looked beautiful when cut into modern shapes such as in the swing jackets and trapeze coats, where deep black faded gracefully into increasingly lighter shades of grey, before melting into a soothing shade of lemon chiffon. Armani also tamed wilder shades of yellow with sheer cages of black chiffon, which calmed the hue's loudness to a quiet roar. He finished with a lovely line up of crystal-embroidered gowns, each one a testament to this designer's prowess when it comes to putting Hollywood actresses in Oscar gowns.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
Mika Cars wants to build the Mino, a sporty, ultra-compact electric two-seater for the open roadAn evolution of Mika’s Meon electric beach buggy, the little Mino is an ultra-light EV with big-car aspirations
-
Beck on his orchestral shows: 'It's something that can't be simulated by AI'Following two nights at London's Royal Albert Hall, Wallpaper* meets Beck and conductor Edwin Outwater to hear how the pair brought to life Beck's back catalogue with an 80-piece orchestra
-
Formula 1 in photos: 100 memorable momentsA new book, ‘Formula 1: The Impossible Collection’, marks 75 years of the motor-racing championship – a history full of tenacity, triumph and tragedy
-
First look at Our Legacy’s cat-adorned Emporio Armani collaborationFeline forms appear throughout a new collection from Emporio Armani and Swedish brand Our Legacy (out 17 November 2023), combining the brands’ unique aesthetics
-
Giorgio Armani’s tennis-inspired collection celebrates a longtime love of the gameThe Giorgio Armani Tennis Classic at London’s Hurlingham Club brought together the game’s biggest stars in the run-up to Wimbledon. In celebration, the house has created a capsule collection that mines tennis’ traditional dress codes for inspiration
-
Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023: Fendi to PradaFrom Prada’s exploration of archetypal menswear garments to JW Anderson’s much-anticipated debut in the city, the best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023, as it happens
-
Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022: Prada to Bottega VenetaIn this extended report, Scarlett Conlon reports live from the Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as they take place on the runway
-
Milan Fashion Week A/W 2021: designers riff on romp and relaxationMilan Fashion Week offered a wardrobe for life after lockdown, by brands including Fendi, Prada, Salvatore Ferragamo, Valentino and Giorgio Armani
-
Sweats and sequins: the duality of dressing at Milan Fashion Week S/S 2021Brands from Dolce & Gabbana to Valentino considered post pandemic dressing, with escapist and pragmatic silhouettes presented with aplomb
-
A decade of fashion show history in picturesBritish photographer Jason Lloyd Evans shares his favourite backstage images, from the runway shows of Dolce & Gabbana, Chanel, Armani, Proenza Schouler, Versace and more
-
Giorgio Armani A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
