Valentino S/S 2018
Pierpaolo Piccioli takes graphic inspiration from the eighties for his second solo menswear collection
Mood board: For his solo menswear outing for Valentino menswear last season, creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli collaborated with punk artist Jamie Reid – creator of the Sex Pistols’ ransom-note style slogans – on cut-and-paste typography details that featured on coats, capes and sweaters. Typography too was a trope in his second S/S 2018 collection, Piccioli looking to a serif ‘VLTN’ logo from the eighties, and reimagining it on shirts and t-shirts (Donatella Versace also looked to the decade for men’s S/S 2018 – reissuing the house’s 1989 logo as part of the collection). Numerical rings worn on multiple fingers of models also spelt out the date of the show. The collection also marked a move towards a younger, sportier customer – one who pairs their logo tee with a bright colour blocked cagoule, a loose denim shirt and striped tracksuit bottoms.
Finishing touches: Piccioli's self-named ‘archetypal’ silhouettes, like chinos, the anorak and the track pant came in luxurious fabrications and with craft-focused details. An open collared boxy shirt with sporty drawstrings came in supple slate leather, while a popper detail jacket was cut from creamy pastel pink calfskin. The collection’s visual language was diversified using tribal focused embellishments, with delicate coloured embroidery featuring on borders on cagoules, on belts, neckties and sneakers- a Valentino calling card.
Best in show: Piccioli is renowned for his sublime use of colour – his debut solo S/S 2017 women’s collection imagined predominantly in shades of pink and yellow. His knack for colour-blocking shone this season – think khaki chinos paired with a forest green toggled hoody, its V-neck shape featuring a sliver of neon pink