MAN S/S 2018
Mood board: MAN is (thankfully) totally bonkers. The seasonal presentation of menswear’s freshest talents plucked straight from design school by Fashion East founder Lulu Kennedy is now in its 12th year. The landscape of fashion might have changed exponentially with a drive towards commerce over creativity, yet Kennedy and her team still know how to curate a cast that will be sure to inject some energy and verve into the seasonal offering. S/S 2018 had extreme denim, Vaudevillian drag and silicone surrealism.
Best in show: Swedish born RCA graduate Per Götesson, showing for his second season with MAN, presented languid tough clothes in utilitarian fabrics. His MA collection explored radical volumes for denim and for S/S 2018 Götesson scaled up jeans and exposed stitching on coats: ‘It’s about finding new ways with denim,’ he said. Götesson collaborated with London-based jeweller Husam el Odeh who elevated found objects; a cigarette dipped in silver became a broach, pink shells were fashioned into earrings and necklaces.
Scene setting: The mood at Fashion East is always one of openness and extremism – the sort that John Waters would be proud of. This season, designer duo Eden Loweth and Tom Barratt (known collectively as Art School) debuted at MAN with a gaggle of non-binary eccentrics. Each paraded Art School’s brand of quotidian queer couture with charming élan. Rottingdean Bazaar cast a series of household objects (matchsticks, keys, copper coins, scissors) in lightweight polyurethane foam directly onto cotton jersey separates worn by models including Central Saint Martins tutor Gail Evans and the English performance artist David Hoyle.
Art School S/S 2018. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Per Götesson S/S 2018. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Per Götesson S/S 2018. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Rottingdean Bazaar S/S 2018. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Rottingdean Bazaar S/S 2018. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
Remembering Frank Gehry, a titan of architecture and a brilliant human beingLong-time Wallpaper* contributor Michael Webb reflects on the legacy of the Los Angeles architect, who died today at age 96
-
Lexus finally confirms the name of its all-electric LFA Concept supercarStill designated a design study, the Lexus LFA Concept should be the successor to the most unlikely of all 20th-century supercars
-
King of cashmere Brunello Cucinelli on his new biographical docu-drama: ‘This is my testimony’Directed by Cinema Paradiso’s Giuseppe Tornatore, ‘Brunello: the Gracious Visionary’ premiered in cinematic fashion at Rome’s Cinecittà studios last night, charting the meteoric rise of the deep-thinking Italian designer
-
‘Architect of glamour’ Antony Price makes a high-voltage return to the runway with 16ArlingtonFeaturing a runway debut from Lily Allen, the show saw legendary designer Antony Price – best known for outfitting Roxy Music in the 1980s – unite with 16Arlington’s Marco Capaldo on the sensual after-dark collection
-
‘Dirty Looks’ at the Barbican explores how fashion designers have found beauty in dirt and decayFrom garments buried in River Thames mud to those torn, creased and stained, ‘Dirty Looks’ is a testament to how ‘creativity and new artistic practices can come out of decay’, its curators tell Dal Chodha
-
Tyler Mitchell’s London show explores the figure of the Black Dandy, ‘imagining what else masculinity could look like’Originally part of a visual essay to accompany the Met’s ‘Superfine’ 2025 Costume Institute exhibition, ‘Portrait of the Modern Dandy’ goes on display at Gagosian Burlington Arcade in London this week
-
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital