Alexander McQueen S/S 2016

Mood board: The précis to Alexander McQueen's spring/summer 2016 show was the black and white vintage portrait of a man covered in tattoos on the front of each invitation. The collection brought together a sense of naval adventure and the spirit of both journey and solitude. Knitwear came in deconstructed stripe or with bands of asymmetric ruffles. Utilitarian fabrics such as cotton canvas, cotton gabardine and salt-washed denim were shown in a gamut of trim styles that steered clear of any nautical cliché.

Best in show: Denim - made to look aged with all over mended stitching - was both relaxed and neat. Standout were two lean suits in dazzle camouflage, inspired by the graphic black and white pattern used during World War 1 in order to make it difficult for oncoming enemies to estimate a target's range, speed and heading. The suits provided a punchy exclamation point amidst an elegant and poetic collection.

Finishing touches: The models wore silk scarves in a tattoo print that was tied around the neck and complimented the tattooed cuffs of button down and pajama shirts. The artisanal beauty of the inked skin of sailors and wrestlers had obviously influenced creative director Sarah Burton; these are clothes primed for up-town swashbuckling.

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans