Nicomede Talavera: The emerging designer platform Fashion East showcases a revolving trio of men's and women's wear designers each season, serving as a veritable petri dish for new talent. Today its S/S 2015 'Man' show opened with the catwalk debut of Nicomede Talavera, whose linear collection of pleated aprons and tunics were spliced and colour-blocked like Louise Bourgeois' iconic fabric works, yet cut with the geometric structures of Sol Lewitt's severe brand of cubism.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Liam Hodges: Countering his cold abstract designs was the work of Liam Hodges, who followed Talavera with a pagan-inflected story filled with totemic patches, tent-like capes and anarchic, braided warrior boys. Inspired by the Kibbo Kift, a British anti-Boy Scouts movement of the early 20th century, Hodges translated their ceremonial inclinations into authentic, directional fashion that (cork chaps aside) told a convincing tale.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Bobby Abley: Rounding out the trilogy, returning jokester Bobby Abley once again skimmed the shallows of recent pop culture for his loud, abrasive streetwear - this time defiling the innocence of the Little Mermaid's aquatic motley crew - with the likeness of Ariel, Sebastian and Ursula each appearing across graphic sweaters. A dabble in glittery knitwear felt like a promising development but, at first glance, his 'Bobby' skateboard rather spelled 'bored' to this editor.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
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Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
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Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
