Issey Miyake Men A/W 2019 Paris Fashion Week Men's
Mood board: Our lives are folded into our phones. Wallets, iPods, address books, diaries – all of them on one device. And so, across fashion and into the streets, a new accessory is taking over – the small pochette, big enough for a phone and a portable charger, but nothing more. This minimalism of dress has nothing to do with minimalist fashion, but it chimes with the need for clean, rigorous lines. Unfussy clothes. The kind of practical, energetic suiting and silhouettes that Yusuke Takahashi does at Miyake. Added to this are the artisanal techniques and rich technical fabrics developed in the studio in Japan. Takahasi isn’t a die-hard minimalist; his colours and patterns are rooted too heavily in the flora and fauna of life. A/ W 2019 explored an easier, free-er wardrobe. Free to move.
Best in show: Takahashi said the collection, entitled ‘Feeling the Wind’, was his way of using the power of nature. Yet this wasn’t a blousy, dramatic affair. The clothes had a poetic severity. Sharp yellow batik dyed tumbling waves were on linen lyocell. In the quest for elegant wearability and warmth, the look was constrained and rigorous. A technical three button blazer had ruching at the back; fringed wool made into overcoats had been shrunk after double weaving, lending it a blustery texture. There was a lightness to the drape to contrast with the autumnal longing for warmth. Heavy knitwear had a springtime ease yet this was a trick of the eye - the clothes were all snug. Tailoring sat away from the body.
Finishing touches: Season upon season, Takahashi takes inspiration from the contrasts of nature with its untamed majesty, exploring it with the agility of urban cityscapes. The muse for this season is unconstrained by heavy tailoring, sharp shoulders and thick textiles. Standout were fine suiting with graphic stripes and matching collarless shirts. Cuffed technical trousers. Pants had a balloon feel and a single pleat at front. All worn with a range of coloured rubber plimsolls and high top sneakers.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
David Lynch presents 'A Thinking Room' at the Salone del Mobile
Here's a first look at the David Lynch Salone del Mobile 2024 installation, a cinematic experience within the fair curated by Antonio Monda
By Laura May Todd Published
-
Riva El-Iseo is the legendary boat builder’s first fully-electric motor yacht
The Riva El-Iseo electric speedboat blends classic Italian lines with a silent, powerful and zero-emission powertrain
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Technogym Home Bench 40 ways: designers interpret the home exercise classic
Technogym marks its 40 anniversary with 40 special editions of its Home Bench created in collaboration with international creatives
By Rosa Bertoli Published
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Akris A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Givenchy A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Valentino A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated