Berluti A/W 2019 Paris Fashion Week Men's
Mood board: The recent drift towards dissecting the archives to define new design has led to some tricky terrain. Raf Simons sent poster-size invitations to his A/W 2015 show that read: ‘To the archives, no longer relevant’ – yet his collection upped the ante on self-referencing. Demna Gvasalia of Vetements and Balenciaga happily reissues the best of the 1990s no matter who might have done it first. Berluti was established in Paris in 1895 and has been built by four generations of shoemakers; its foray into ready-to-wear is relatively nascent. Since 2011 the house has expanded its offering, putting its exquisite leather know-how to good use. In his first Berluti show as artistic director, Kris Van Assche cut loose from the venerated codes of an ancient house. There was a new freedom to his look that was still rendered in a hard-line, strict sensuality.
Scene setting: The show was staged in the gilded halls of the Opéra Garnier – models walked up the marble staircase, looping around the alcoves in adventurously audacious couplings. Rows of artisans who work in the fashion house’s manifattura in Ferrara lined the staircase, proudly wearing their worn, leather aprons. Each had their own patina of wear, time and skill. Inspired by the old marble tables at which craftsmen sit and hand-dye the patina of shoes, Van Assche’s collection takes its hues from the stains of their surfaces.
Best in show: The classic Alessandro shoe hand-crafted from one piece of leather was reimagined with sculptural caps, recalling the faces of diamonds. A white sneaker was created with the same artisanal attitude. Photographs of dye-splattered marble were printed on silk shirts and nylon bags. Tailoring was the major focus, in soft calfskin and jacquard or structured in exotic skins. The line had a strong, defined silhouette with a wide shoulder and narrow waist either worn with slim trousers with zip openings at the front cuff or with logoed motocross patchwork pants. Sculptural clutches and attaché cases looked like the chassis of fast sports cars.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
Chanel shows its sporting colours with a bold high jewellery collection
Chanel's high jewellery collection is inspired by its founder’s athletic aesthetic
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Sarah Solis’ first furniture collection is an homage to art deco
‘Is it weird to call furniture sexy?’ Los Angeles-based designer Sarah Solis discusses her debut furniture line and new brand and store, Galerie Solis
By Dan Howarth Published
-
‘Very Roman, very Bulgari’: Mary Katrantzou on the ancient roots of her opulent first accessories collection for Bulgari
Greek fashion designer Mary Katrantzou, Bulgari’s new creative director of leather goods and accessories, breaks down her debut ‘Calla’ collection for Wallpaper*
By Jack Moss Published
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Men's knitwear designs: wearable works of art?
These knitwear designs for spring ensure we're wearing our art on our sleeve
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated