Mood board: Lucas Ossendrijver’s latest collection for Lanvin felt less fussy than previous seasons – the trinkets, ropes and buckles that the designer has favoured in the past have gone, making room for a new, bracing clarity. The season had no elaborate concept and concentrated more on the very essence of design. Construction and proportion were the focus. Check shirts, parka, duffle-coat or chino pants were each reworked to become something luxurious in its primary form.
Finishing touches: Leather was dyed in bright colours and sewn into a patchwork on jackets, or laminated onto wool and cotton coats. Knit trainers and patent leather mountain boots were made for motion, as Lanvin Homme heads towards a clearer, less quixotic future. ‘I wanted this season to be a punch rather than a caress,’ Ossendrijver said. The audience felt it.
Best in show: There was real gusto to some of the more exaggerated volumes of trekking jackets and t-shirts cut on the bias worn with shrunken knits. Matched with slim pants, a close fitting suit with narrowed shoulders pressed to form pleats along the sleeves and back also stood-out. Ossendrijver’s message for the season came printed on the skinny scarves worn by the models; ‘nothing’ they read. But this collection is everything.
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Griffin Frazen on conceiving the cinematic runway sets for New York label Khaite: ‘If people feel moved we’ve succeeded’The architectural designer – who helped conceive the sets for ‘The Brutalist’ – collaborates with his wife Catherine Holstein on the scenography for her Khaite runway shows, the latest of which took place in NYFW this past weekend
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Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: what to expectFive moments to look out for at Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 in Paris (starting Monday 7 July), from Glenn Martens’ debut for Maison Margiela to Demna’s Balenciaga swansong. Plus, ‘new beginnings’ from JW Anderson
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Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
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Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
