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Mood board: Lucas Ossendrijver’s latest collection for Lanvin felt less fussy than previous seasons – the trinkets, ropes and buckles that the designer has favoured in the past have gone, making room for a new, bracing clarity. The season had no elaborate concept and concentrated more on the very essence of design. Construction and proportion were the focus. Check shirts, parka, duffle-coat or chino pants were each reworked to become something luxurious in its primary form.
Finishing touches: Leather was dyed in bright colours and sewn into a patchwork on jackets, or laminated onto wool and cotton coats. Knit trainers and patent leather mountain boots were made for motion, as Lanvin Homme heads towards a clearer, less quixotic future. ‘I wanted this season to be a punch rather than a caress,’ Ossendrijver said. The audience felt it.
Best in show: There was real gusto to some of the more exaggerated volumes of trekking jackets and t-shirts cut on the bias worn with shrunken knits. Matched with slim pants, a close fitting suit with narrowed shoulders pressed to form pleats along the sleeves and back also stood-out. Ossendrijver’s message for the season came printed on the skinny scarves worn by the models; ‘nothing’ they read. But this collection is everything.
