Mood board: There is that quiet, restrained extravagance to the clothes made by Hermès. The opening look for the A/W 2017 show was a belted wrap-around coat with asymmetrical button front in brown alpaca broadcloth. Worn with a cashmere turtle neck and narrow cotton gabardine trousers, this was a million miles away from the dozens of streetwear-meets-luxury looks taking over the men’s collections in Paris. Never has conservatism seemed so disruptive.
Best in show: This was fundamentally and unequivocally about quality – it was luxury that a lot of men on the street will never be able to afford. The collection focussed on the rhythm of contrasting volumes – a roomy asymmetrical wrap-around coat in technical cashmere was worn with wide, single-pleat lambskin trousers cinched at the waist with a large bum-bag. There were a lot of lean, narrow trousers in soft lambskin with saddle topstitching too.
Finishing touches: Standout were the heavy-tredge ankle boots and the cable-effect sheepskin pullovers. Homage was paid to the label’s iconic saddle boot as buckled straps were applied to updated desert boots with thick lug soles.