From her first look out - a blush wool coat and bottle green sweater, worn with powder blue leather trousers - Frida Giannini nailed down a beautiful palette of winter colours for Gucci. Dusty, faded hues, from powder pink and taupe to sage and sea green, continued to bubble to the surface for the boys in a well-judged line-up of modern suit separates. If this sounds vaguely girlish, it wasn't. Giannini mined the 1960s for her clean, retro-tinged lines and threw in a bit of masculine muscle with the wool sailor hats and black leather that nodded regularly to Mod. Although her pants were cut as tightly (and unforgivingly) as a pair of wool ski tights, the rest of the collection came packed with covetable items that most guys are going to claim for next winter's wardrobe. We loved the shrunken pea coats, the nubbly sweatshirts, the camel coloured sleeveless jacket, and the leather details that came on the collars of black jackets, the pockets of sweaters and even the sharp lapel of an elegant evening tuxedo.
Photography: Anna Stokland/Jason Lloyd-Evans
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